The Grandest Of Them All
New Hampshire's posh and historic hotels glisten in the White Mountains
If only these walls could talk, I think to myself. The conversation might go something like this: "Mirror, mirror on the wall, who's the grandest of them all?" "I am older, larger and grander," The Balsams Resort in Dixville Notch would say. "Ah, but my mountains are taller, and my views are the fairest of them all," The Mount Washington Hotel would reply. But which is fairest you ask? Like choosing between creme brule and tiramisu, these grand Hotels of New Hampshire must be individually savored for their splendid similarities as well as their historic uniqueness. While both Hotels are well known and originally created as summer retreats for the rich and famous, my visits occurred during the magical winter season. The Mount Washington Hotel is a brilliant white 200-room Spanish Renaissance Revival, located 30 minutes northwest of popular North Conway, just through twisty Crawford Notch. Built in 1902, the hotel is right out of a fairy tale, perched on a glacial knoll at the foot of the spectacular 6,288-foot Mount Washington, the highest peak on the Eastern seaboard.
The Mount Washington Hotel made big news last year when it opened for its first winter ever. The owners, Joel and Cathy Bedor and their partners, have restored this immense property to its original grandeur while adding winterization. A steady stream of insulation, time and money has been pouring into the hotel, since they salvaged it at an FDIC auction in 1991.
The Balsams' extreme northern New Hampshire location (just 13 miles from the Canadian border) provides privileged guests with 15,000 spectacular acres for snow-covered exploration, including L.L. Bean's Outdoor Discovery Course.
Everything at these hotels is world class, and everything is included in your American plan rate. These posh turn-of-the-century retreats have as many activities as cruise ships, and yet a traditional tone of grace and class exists here that you would be hard pressed to find in a sea full of today's floating resorts.
Bretton Woods gets the nod as New Hampshire's largest ski area. The skiing is pleasantly tame, no extreme challenge here. Almost 70 mellow cruising trails are ideal for most skiers and riders, and perfect for families. With exceptional snowmaking and grooming, every turn is a good one. To say that skiing here is scenic would be the understatement of the new millennium. From every trail you get an eyeful of the awesome "Mount," and framing the picture is the perfectly placed castle-like hotel. The Balsams has its own ski area, also just moments away on the complimentary shuttle. Skiing here is referred to as an amenity, to downplay any expectations of high-speed lifts or vast terrain. An antique center pole double chair earns you a remarkably rewarding 1,000-foot vertical on a baker's dozen runs.
Aside from alpine skiing, The Balsams and The Mount Washington outdoor offerings include cross-country, snowshoeing and ice-skating. Of course, reading a book by one of the magnificent fireplaces is always a less ambitious alternative. The two hotels also have their own on-staff activities director, whose duty is to post an extensive daily roster of activities in the lobby, organize games and supervise camp for children who are so inclined.
The Balsams achieves its unique recurring fame every election year as the first electoral votes in the country are cast in the hotel's Ballot Room by the handful of Dixville Notch residents. Both hotels have thrived during periods of prosperity, but suffered through war times and rationing in the past century. In their heyday, wealthy guests and celebrities would arrive with dressing trunks and entourages of servants for the summer season. Days were filled with outdoor diversions, elaborate meals and strolling the verandahs that skirt the immense hotels. That high style of ostentatious living is upheld, with a few winter modernisms to accommodate today's guests. To this day, evenings are formal affairs, a welcome novelty in our society of declining manners. In grand hotel tradition, you must dress for dinner, (coat and tie please, gentlemen), and each family's table is reserved for their entire stay.
The conclusion of every day is call for celebration in these fabulous settings. Ironically, both hotels have their own "Cave" for nightlife. The granite lined speakeasy tucked within each hotel dates back to prohibition days. These dark and mysterious enclaves, in keeping with decades of tradition, are filled with music, laughter and live entertainment. The similarities are striking. From the nightly unveiling of the chef's ice-carvings, to the countless distractions for the well heeled from dawn to the wee-hours, the hotels course the same vein of extravagant vacation living. Architecturally speaking, they are equally monumental landmarks, on the National Trust for Historic Preservation. If you are looking for the ultimate winter getaway, either of these hotels will not disappoint. The lodging packages are not for the faint of wallet, but the all-inclusive pricing allows you to sample every activity, feast like royalty and feel absolutely pampered in a century old setting. Which is grander? Both are steeped in fascinating history, rich with grandiose tradition, loaded with delightful winter amusements and the food -- is to die for. If you are torn between which of these incredible Resorts to visit, take this advise from Christopher Robin's childhood companion. In the classic Tale of Winnie the Pooh, when asked if he prefers honey or milk with his bread, Pooh smartly replies, "Both!" Information * The Mount Washington Resort, Route 302, Bretton Woods, NH 03575; (800) 258-0330 or (603) 278-1000, www.mtwashington.com * Bretton Woods Mountain Resort. (603) 278-3320, www.brettonwoods.com The Balsams Grand Resort Hotel and Wilderness, Dixville Notch, NH 03576; (800) 255-0600 or (603) 255-3400, www.thebalsams.com |
Classical music emanates from the
Observatory, a blazing fire crackles in the enormous fireplace,
beautiful wool carpets cushion your every step and crystal chandeliers
light up the grand lobby as guests return from an exhilarating day on
the slopes. 
Further north, The Balsams Grand
Resort Hotel appears every bit as elegant today as she must have in
1866. This Grand Dame has been welcoming guests in opulent style to an
incredibly setting in Dixville Notch ever since. The 400-room Balsams
Hotel is carved into a valley of granite-cropped mountains. The
original Dixville House is an immense Victorian, while the Hampshire
House is a graceful 1917 addition of Rhenish style still referred to
as the "new wing." 
The only thing that tops the aptly
named "Balsams Wilderness" scenery is the award-winning food prepared
by the chefs. The culinary nod, as evidenced by the Resort's display
case of gourmet trophies and medals, must go to the Balsams Grand
Resort. The extensive buffets are truly a feast for the eyes and the
palate. 
The Mount Washington Hotel is in the
heart of an 18,000-acre winter playground, part of the White Mountain
National Forest. Bretton Woods Ski Area, now owned and managed as part
of the hotel and resort, is minutes from the door via free resort
shuttle. The ski area spans 345 acres since adding the West Mountain
area last season, and this year a second high-speed quad replaces the
notoriously slow double on Mt. Oscar. 
Skiing the Balsams is akin to being a
member of a private ski club; the alpine area could be categorized as
one of New Hampshire's smallest. By the last lift, you will know each
skier by his or her happy smile, if not by name and dinner table
number. I should note that although the ski area is not glitzy, it is
peaceful, unspoiled and the majority of the mile-long cruising runs
are groomed nightly and covered with snowmaking for the hotel guests
and the handful of local skiers and staff. 
Historically speaking, The Mount
Washington Hotel became world famous during the Bretton Woods
Conference of 1944 when 700 delegates from 44 countries came to the
hotel for the month of July. The Gold Standard was drafted for
international currency and the renowned Articles of Agreement was
signed in the hotel's Gold Room, which has been preserved and remains
on display today. 
Nowadays, guests are more oft in
residence for a weekend or a holiday week, not the entire season.
Willingly adapting to custom, diners assume their special placement
each evening and quickly memorize their server's name. In turn, the
well-trained staff learns the "usual" drink requests and expertly
anticipates every wish.