VERMONT
Smaller is
friendlier at Pico Peak, Vt.
It's the cheerful neighbor of the 'Beast of the East'
This
story was Published in The Providence Journal
Published:
November 15, 2001
By Heather Burke
The morning sun is glittering on the fresh blanket of Vermont snow. My
7-year-old daughter and I are riding the Golden Express quad. We are
seated next to Erling Omland. As we lower the safety bar, he frankly
volunteers that he has been skiing since 1922, when he was 3 years
old. While I am doing some quick math in my head, he bursts into song.
"I ski Pico, the friendliest mountain you'll ever know," he chimes
with intermittent yodels.
"Wow, he is nuts about this place," my daughter, Aspen, whispers.
What's not to love this morning, I think to myself. Ten inches of
powder, the sun is out, I am being whisked to the 3,967-foot summit on
a high-speed quad. As a bonus, there is a minimal crowd of skiers and
riders for a Saturday in February. Oh well, more fresh tracks for me!
We glide over the fresh white layer covering the Fool's Gold trail
headed toward the summit express quad. From the breathtaking Pico
summit, big brother Killington and its expansive network of lifts and
trails come into view. From this distance, Killington looks alluring,
but today "we ski Pico" as Omland suggested in his song, and it is
friendly indeed.
48 trails, 4 peaks
We shared the 48 trails spread out over four peaks with only a
handful of people, making the day one of best of our season. From the
summit, we threaded our way through the spaciously trimmed Birch
Glades, then moved on to The Pike, the liftline trail with a
consistent pitch and plenty of width for my daughter's erratic turns.
The twisty-turny KA -- named for Karl Acker, one of the original Pico
skiers -- was our next choice.
On the western flank of the mountain, the kids loved exploring the
themed trails like Bronco, Sidewinder, Stampede and Wrangler, all
served by the Outpost double chair.
My husband, Greg, and son, Ian, 9, were now eager to test their mettle
on Giant Killer, one of the steepest at Pico. We gals stuck to 49er,
the steady blue square run, where the snow was silky, and the views
were superb.
"Like a day off"
A ski patroller who joined us for one of our many quad chair
ascents said, "My rotation days at Pico are like a day off. It's so
peaceful over here compared to Killington, where its just code after
code all day long." ("Code" is patrol-speak for accident.)
The only thing to slow down our run count was a leisurely lunch back
at our slopeside condominium, some tired legs, and a promise to visit
the Health Club's heated pool and hot tubs.
It was such a refreshing day, no lift lines, no busy intersections, no
angry mobs. Not once did I fear for my kids' safety on the slopes, a
common concern at more popular ski resorts.
Pico is a classic Vermont ski mountain, with almost 2,000 vertical
feet served by seven lifts including two high-speed quads. The central
base is a comfort to me, with two adventuresome but young kids. No
matter where their skis wander, I can meet them at the bottom.
"It's a sin how Pico is underutilized, and yet it's a privilege to
have our own private mountain," said Omland.
First T-Bar
Today, Pico is one of skiing's best kept secrets despite a history
dating to the 1920s, nearly 40 years before the more famous Killington
began to take shape. The first T-Bar in North American was at Pico.
The founders, Brad and Janet Mead, upon returning from a trip to Davos,
Switzerland, thought this alpine setting of Vermont would be an ideal
destination ski resort.
Pico has since launched some great racers, including the resort
founders' daughter, Andrea Mead Lawrence. She learned to ski at Pico
and went on to win double Golds in the 1952 Olympics in Norway, a feat
no other U.S. ski racer has matched.
America's ski racing sweetheart Suzy Chaffee, best known for her '60s
vintage tight stretch pants and the Suzy "Chapstick" ads, made her
first turns here as well.
The quaint ski area and clock tower village that have evolved are
considerably more humble than internationally glitzy Davos, but Pico
has an unmistakable charm all its own.
Surrounding the Pico base area is a cluster of nicely appointed
condominiums, and a full service fitness club. Our two-bedroom unit
has a convenient kitchen, and a fireplace and deck overlooking the
slopes to keep my husband entertained, where he can oversee our kids'
impromptu sledding party while tending the fire.
Pico is a short 4-mile drive to Killington Ski Resort. Due to the
American Skiing Company merger of 1998, there are plans to
interconnect the abutting ski areas. For now, you can drive or take
the Red Bus (a shuttle) to Killington's slopes, to any of the fabulous
eateries or to frolic in the notorious nightlife along the Mountain
Access Road.
We opted for a quiet evening in, with plans to be on Killington's
first gondola at 8 a.m., Sunday morning. Most lift tickets at Pico are
valid at Killington and vice versa, so you have two ski areas to
choose from.
We were far from alone at the opening of the gondola Sunday morning.
For two resorts so geographically close, not to mention sharing the
same corporate logo, Killington and Pico are "polar" opposites.
"Beast of the East"
Killington, aptly named "Beast of the East," is all the rage with
the New York set, drawn to all things big. Killington boasts the most
skiable acres (1,182), the most trails (200) and the most lifts (32)
in the East.
And, I might add, the most skiers.
After a short wait, the K1 gondola, one of two futuristic
eight-passenger models, offered us speedy comfort up to Vermont's
highest point that can be reached by aerial lift, 4,200-foot
Killington Peak. The summit was clear enough to see much of
Killington's six-mountain expanse, and plenty of other ski areas in
the distance including sister Pico.
Descending Killington's vast acreage, you could easily get lost. We
did our best to navigate the maze of trails from central Killington
Peak to Snowdon's cruisers and on to the tamer family area of Ram's
Head. Then we traversed to Skye Peak, where they stockpile the snow in
36-foot mounds to last until June.
With so many intersections and skiers, we made certain to keep the
kids between us, Dad skied the lead and I was on caboose detail.
Our final lift pod was the eastern-most Bear Mountain. Everyday is
like spring break at Bear Mountain; the mogul mecca at Killington
where the bumps on Outer Limits swell throughout the season and the
base lodge deck parties are a ritual. The Bear Mountain Deli made a
nice spot for lunch and a view of the mogul bashing on Outer Limits.
Our son said Killington is "huge." But he had to give his sister the
nod when she reminded him of how friendly Pico had been the day
before.
A weekend strategy
The advantage for skiers and riders is having the option of both.
I recommend skiing Pico, "the friendliest mountain you'll ever know,"
on Saturday to avoid peak Killington crowds. Then tame the Beast on
Sunday when weekend partiers are sleeping in.
Our ski weekend satisfied the on and off slope cravings of the entire
family, from peaceful cruisings at Pico, and crowd pleasing mogul
fields at Killington, cozy fireplaces to splashing in the swimming
pool.
• IF YOU GO: Pico Resort is four hours from Providence. Pico
Resort Condominiums offers two-day weekend lift and lodging packages
for a family of four in a two-bedroom unit starting at $240 per
person, quad occupancy. Call 866-988-7426 for Pico and Killington
reservations or visit
www.picomountain.com or
www.killington.com
