Smugglers' Notch,
Family Style
This story was Published in The
Daily Evening Item
Published:
November 1999
By Heather Burke
I had skied Smugglers’ Notch many times before. This was my “ole
stomping ground” as a college student at the University of Vermont. My
memories were of double black diamonds on Madonna, the biggest of the
three interconnected ski mountains comprising this northern Vermont
resort.
A decade later, I was to return to this familiar place with a whole
new outlook, as a parent with my husband and two kids in tow. Our kids
were jazzed after viewing the free video we had received. All along
our drive to remote Jeffersonville, Vermont we heard about Mogul Mouse
and Billy Bob Bear. Smugglers’ bills itself as “America’s Family
Resort”, and is the proud recipient of countless ski publication
awards for children’s programs. The kids weren’t the only ones who
were pumped. I had memorized the brochure that “Guarantees Family
Fun”. So we all had high expectations.
The Village was just bustling with smiling families as we arrived on a
Friday afternoon in February. Our daughter immediately spotted a
larger than life size portrait of
Mogul Mouse guarding the entrance to
the Snow Sport University, where she would be headed for ski camp
tomorrow. Through the maze of condominiums (many of which weren’t here
ten years ago), we navigated half way up Morse Mountain, the smallest
of Smugglers’ three interconnected mountains, to our weekend lodging
called “The Willows”. Smugglers’ has obviously tapped in to a hot real
estate trend, namely skiing baby boomers with kids! Our spacious unit
had a balcony overlooking the slopes, was extremely well appointed,
and the Jacuzzi in the master bath was the icing on the cake!
I hardly had time to unpack groceries and stow away boot bags, the
kids were clamoring to explore the Fun Zone, the indoor pool and hot
tub, and the ice skating, just a few attractions they had already
scouted out. Steps from our slopeside home we discovered Sir Henry’s
Tube Sliding Hill. High tech tubing is $6 for an hour with a handle
tow to pull you back up the hill, but being a
frugal family, we were
all more than satisfied with the free tubing area with a short climb
after each slippery descent. The kids were so content sliding, I was
able to sneak over to the close-by Village Center to browse the Sport
Shop and the Country Store. The resort is Disney-like in its bright,
entertaining atmosphere. Signs at every turn for activities and events
with a persuasive “Just Try It” logo suggested that I try a moonlight
snowshoe trip or Night School for Snowboarding. I certainly intended
to send the kids to ski camp, but I hadn’t contemplated learning
something new myself. But now they had me thinking…perhaps I should
“just try it”.
Just as there are loads of activities to choose from, the Village
offers plenty of dining options depending on your mood, budget and
tastes. Riga Bello’s Italian Eatery was perfect for a cafeteria style
bite on our arrival night. We decided to save The Hearth and Candle
for Saturday when the kids could be fed and entertained at PNO,
(that’s Smugglers’ code for “parents’ night out”). Area restaurants
include a Mexican cantina, the quaint
Three Mountain Lodge log cabin
restaurant, even candlelit dining at The Top of the Notch with
transportation via snowcat.
Mogul Mouse’s Magic Lift was starting up as we finished our breakfast
the next morning. Twenty minutes later we were loading this leisurely,
but reliable lift with a cheerful motif of stars and moons, which
cleverly disguises the reality that this lift came from Magic
Mountain, in southern Vermont. Our ascent brought us to some very
gentle beginner terrain, and my daughter loved skiing through the
Enchanted Forest, which includes Billy Bob’s Bear Den and Yellow Cat’s
Lair. We did all this with plenty of time to arrive at 9:00am-ski camp
drop off.
The Snowsports instructor explained to me that ski camp concludes at
2:15, but children are highly encouraged to stay for the indoor
afternoon entertainment. The after ski programs are so thoroughly
choreographed that I was discouraged from picking my child until the
entertainment is finished at 4:00pm. And sure enough, as I peeked in
at 3:00pm, the kids were completely enthralled by “Professor Alpine
and Winter Wizard’s Science of Nature” show, an indoor culmination of
the day’s environmental lesson. So tuned into education, Smugglers’
even offers an evening Study Hall session during the week, supervised
by certified teachers to ensure homework is tended to while kids are
missing school. Students can even e-mail assignments to and from their
teachers during their vacation.
I can’t say Smugglers’ is relaxing for parents. Fun for kids,
guaranteed. The programs are endless. The only time you will have to
rest is during the ride on the double chairs. This is one place where
Smugglers’ is not cutting edge, the ski experience is “retro”, from
the lifts, to the classic winding trails. But family reputation aside,
the upper mountain skiing is far from wimpy. Madonna Mountain at
3,640’ offers hair-raising steeps, bumps, and loads of sensational
glades. For scenic winding cruisers, Chilcoot is in my top ten of
great New England trails. Completing the resort’s trio of mountains,
Sterling has plenty of classic advanced intermediate and expert trails
to explore. New for this 99-00 season is a designated beginner area,
expanding the eastern side of Morse Mountain, near many of the new
condos. The new Morse Highlands area will offer five advanced
beginners trails serviced by yet another double chair, this time a
hand me down from Loon. If Smugglers’ three mountains aren’t enough,
you can ski a day at Stowe from the summit of Sterling, included in
Club Smugglers’ packages of 2 or more days.
Smugglers’ many scheduled activities are geared for a Sunday arrival
staying through Friday. To kick off the week, families attend a
welcome party with all the characters, Mogul Mouse and friends. The
next evening offers a Wine & Cheese party and Parents Night Out –
trained counselors care for the kids with pizza, games and a movie,
while parents partake of fine dining or a Nordic Night Tour. Later in
the week, if you aren’t exhausted from the outdoor recreation, choose
from a family dance party, game night, and on Thursday the crescendo
is a torchlight parade with fireworks. “America’s Family Resort”
indeed! They really have thought of everything for families, from
daycare, to the teen center. They have even managed to transform the
otherwise banal process of snowmaking into an animated demonstration
at Snowflake Bentley’s Weather Center, where kids and adults learn the
white technology on a tour with “Frostie the Snowmaker”.
Too much to do, too little time. We were only able to squeeze in a
fraction of the adventures offered at Smugglers’. Our kids loved every
minute of our action packed weekend. They were so completely
entertained; I heard not one complaint. Next time we are going for a
week.
If you go, where to stay:
Call the reservation consultants at Smugglers Notch at 1-800-451-8752
for the many lodging options from studios to 5 bedroom townhouses. The
Club Smugglers package includes many activities and lessons.
If you go, where to dine:
The Hearth & Candle is recommended for excellent cuisine right in the
Village. Adults’ only dining is served in the Birch Room. They also
offer family dining in their downstairs dining rooms. Reservations
802-644-8090
The Three Mountain Lodge is a warm and inviting log cabin down the
mountain road serving fine food in a fireside atmosphere. For
reservations call 802-644-5736
The Brewski is a Mountain Road favorite among locals for pizza and a
drink or two. 802-644-5432
Riga-Bello’s Pizzeria in the Village Lodge has counter service pizza,
plus take out or delivery is available.
For on the mountain lunch, the Top of the Notch serves soups and
burgers at the top of the Sterling Lift. Also open certain nights for
a candlelit meal via snowcat.
