Charleston is Charming

South Carolina doesn’t spring to mind as a family vacation spot. Florida usually wins out for warm weather and amusement park abundance. It was chancy taking our kids to Charleston during school vacation, but we were absolutely charmed by Charleston.

Charleston claims many historical “firsts,” founded in 1670, making it a true educational vacation. You can visit real plantations and trace the Revolutionary and Civil wars. And there is still plenty of time to hit the sandy beach or go boating along the southern coast.

Whether you are captivated by pirate antics and haunted houses, fascinated by armed forts and aircraft carriers, awed by antebellum mansions or just lured by local seafood – Charleston plays to all those times and tastes. History buffs – this is your haven. Charleston was “first” in key battles of the Revolutionary and Civil wars, inventions like the cotton gin, even exports of peanuts to pecans and tea originated here. Flower lovers will enjoy walking the brick and cobblestone streets ablaze with dogwoods and wisterias, or touring centuries-old estates featuring the country’s first formal gardens draped by grand old shady trees.

Bring your sneakers and a smile – Charleston is a great walking city, and probably the friendliest destination our family has ever visited (another first!). The folks here just ooze hospitality with their “sweet as pecan pie” southern accents.

We only had a week to dive into this delightful southern destination – not enough time to see all the sights - the plantations, historic homes and war batteries, but we packed a lot in since everything is close – with no crowds.

You must visit “the most photographed” Boone Hall Plantation – have your cameras ready for the grand half-mile entry, the splendid canopy of live oaks draped with Spanish moss transports you to a bygone era. Our kids were enticed that movies like “The Notebook”, “North and South” and Alex Haley’s “Queen” with Halley Berry were filmed here. But the elegant estate house, the crowded slave houses, with accompanying narrative about the work conditions on a true 17th century plantation, enthralled them. I too was amazed that this one plantation had exported everything from indigo, rice and cotton, brick and tile from the clay river beds, to pecans, grapes, berries and peaches.

Next we toured an authentic urban plantation in downtown Charleston, the Aiken Rhett House. Here our kids could glean what city life was like for a wealthy child in the 18th century, and conversely – what child slaves endured. Charleston’s past is one of pride and prosperity, while in the shadows are the roots of human bondage. Charleston was nicknamed “Ellis Island of Africans” as the port of entry of almost four million African slaves.

The Old Exchange Building and the Provost Dungeon in town tells the tales of Charleston being stormed by the British, French and Spanish in Revolutionary times. The Carolinians claim the Revolutionary War started here - Northerners have similar proclamations (let’s not go there again). South Carolinians plotted their succession from the Union here, the first state to do so, sparking the first shots of the Civil War (another Charleston first).

Mother Nature has also brought fury to this fine coastal community with earthquakes, fires, and Hurricane Hugo in 1989 – the destructive storm that locals now use a time reference: “before and after Hugo.” In spite of her turbulent past, Charleston remains as graceful southern lady - fanning off the havoc and bombardments she’s seen with a parasol and a tall pitcher of sweet iced tea.

Middleton Place, along the famed Ashley River, offered us more insights to 17th and 18th century plantation life of one of the wealthiest families who owned over 800 slaves. The beauty of the landscaped grounds and reflecting pools (which today hosts a family of alligators) speaks to the incongruities of our American history. More irony, our slave tour was led by a cheery blonde Chicagoan who stepped out of a Talbot’s catalogue – not the African American cultural immersion we had hoped for.

At the end of the slave tour, there was begging - from starving children, our own. All this talk of hardship made them hungry for Bubba Gump Shrimp Co., Charleston’s memorabilia-filled eatery based on the movie “Forest Gump,” our family’s favorite flick.

Charleston has heaped a shrimp-boat size pile of food awards, the “low country” southern style fixins of crab, oysters and shrimp – y’all just have to try ‘em. Note: diet before and after your charge through Charleston. Savor a helping of She crab soup, gumbo, or the obligatory gravy-laden shrimp and grits - just like Washington did on his 1791 southern Victory tour.

Charleston also claims to be the most haunted city, an evening ghost and graveyard tour dishes more chills and shrills than any scary amusement park ride. For battle buffs, go to Patriots Point where you can tour the Yorktown aircraft carrier, battleships and a submarine. Then board the harbor tour to Fort Sumter- its a “muster.”

When the kids start to glaze over from too many history lessons, head to the islands, so to speak. Just a 15-minute ride from Charleston, over the longest cable stay bridge in the U.S. (The $700-million Ravenel Bride opened in 2002), and you are on the barrier islands surrounded by sandy beaches and palm trees.

We found Isle of Palms to be a great place to stay and play. The beaches are long and wide on the sea side, and the sunsets over the inter-coastal shore are splendid whether you’re at Morgan Creek’s rooftop bar, or on a boat rented from the local marina. There is plenty to do from riding bikes, paddling kayaks on the waterways, or swimming in the warm surf here or on neighboring Sullivan’s Island and Folly Beach.

When to go? The friendly South Carolinians told us that April and May, along with October and November are the best times to “beat it down” to Charleston. 75-degrees and sunshine is just right to walk these legend-filled streets, or step back in time with a horse drawn carriage ride along the picturesque painted homes of Rainbow Row.

If Disney’s been done, and you crave a bit more substance to your sojourn – check out charming Charleston. It’s an education vacation; the history here is rich and deep –like the southern drawl you’ll hear. You can have your beach-time too. And did I mention the friendliest people on the planet?

Charleston Choices:

Charleston CVB for lodging, tour and travel information. 1-843-853-8000

City Sites:
Old Exchange and Provost Dungeon Built by the British in1768 to collect the King’s taxes, the grand Georgian Palladian building later became the social center and meeting place of the Continental Congress. Below is the eerie Dungeon where pirates and patriots were imprisoned.

Aiken Rhett House is a classic urban plantation with slave quarters and stable yards out back – the authentic home gives insight to the life of wealthy Charleston families, and their servants.

Poogan’s Porch on Queen Street is a typical southern style restaurant in the heart of Charleston. Try the She Crab Soup with delicious homemade biscuits, or eat the alligator. Don’t miss the dog’s tombstone in the front yard, and the haunted stories about past residents.

South Carolina Aquarium is popular with young kids -live exhibits of native shark, turtle, crab, birds, and fish fill this waterfront building with bonus views of the harbor.

The Trunk Show on Meeting Street is a vintage shoppers dream. Ball gowns and runway fashions are stuffed into this amazing treasure chest of a shop.

Plantations Outside Charleston Proper:
Boone Hall Plantation is America's most photographed plantation. From the half-mile entrance of huge moss-draped Spanish oaks, you can tour the 17th century property’s original estate house, cotton gin, slave cabins, smoke house and formal gardens - all built with brick and tile made on the plantation – which continues to harvest produce today.

Middleton Place, on the banks of the Ashley River, is a 1741 plantation that endured the Revolutionary War, the Civil War and the earthquake of 1886, with America’s oldest landscaped gardens.

Fascinating Fort:
Fort Sumter, start your day at Patriots Point visiting the Yorktown aircraft carrier and the Clamagore submarine, then board the harbor tour boat for a guided visit of the1861 Civil War torn fort which was key to both the Confederate and Union efforts.

Fort Moultrie on Sullivan’s Island, a National Park, is a strategic fort dating back to America’s first victory over the British when it was a palmetto log bunker. See the adaptation over centuries of this seacoast defense location from 1776 to 1947.


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