We biked into the Netherlands from Bruges, Belgium, see our Brussels to Bruges bike itinerary, now we cycle to beautiful Dutch cities – Middelburg, Veer, Zierikzee, Willemstaad, Breda, Bergen op Zoom, Den Bosch, Venlo to Roermond, Maastricht… then back into Belgium, returning to Brussels where we began our cycle adventure. You can make this Southern Netherland bike itinerary 12-days, or longer into Belgium, or shorter. See our Tips on How to Pack for a Cycling Trip
Day 1 Bruges → Middelburg, Netherlands
We biked 35-miles, from beautiful Bruges Belgium, (see our Biking Belgium tour we enjoyed prior), along the peaceful canals into historic Damme, through the vibrant and vital port of Sluis Netherland, and into national parks along the North Sea, with view across the “Zeeland” channel. Salty air, sea breezes, as well as huge cargo ships offshore entertained us along our wide bike path. I imagined the sandy beaches must be popular during summer season, based on all the beach cabanas and sand bars. A 5-mile ferry (exclusive to bikes and pedestrians) across the channel, and a short remaining ride delivered us to Middelburg’s medieval city gate, Koepoort, and the heart of Zeeland.
Heather’s Bike Bell Tip: we use the Komoot app to create our Bike Itineraries, on our PC at home, and we can edit our journey on the fly to dodge weather, or change course!
After checking into the lovely Hotel St Joris, a 4-star rebuilt 1582 castle, storing our bikes, we embarked on our walking tour of the warn-torn city of Middelburg. Every cobblestone street and courtyard tells a story, many perfectly restored monuments defy the 4 ½ year German occupation of WW2, including the centerpiece gothic 1452 Stadhuis, which was all-but-destroyed by the Germans in 1940, but swiftly rebuilt in 7 years, to stand proudly in Plein 1940 Square. Heather’s bike bell tip: Look up at the clock tower dubbed “Silly Betty” since she chimes off time, which the Dutch find too fun to fix!
Middelburg’s Stadhuis is now home to University of Roosevelt. Yes, US President Roosevelt, who proclaimed after WW2, in his 4 Freedoms speech “freedom of speech, worship, freedom from want, and fear.” Going deeper in history, Middelburg thrived in the Golden Age as evidenced by grand canal homes, as the Dutch profited from what they now reflect on as dark history – slave trade with the West and East Indies. Lange Jan – is the old Abbey’s 90-meter Belfry (207 steps) with a curious lean.
Dinner at La Presa was a cozy tap room setting, with an exciting open-kitchen, where inventive shareable tapas plates are created, like eel on pork belly – surprisingly delicious. Strolling Middelburg’s pretty plazas and pedestrian ways, cobblestone alleyways including the narrowest street in all of Netherlands, and a charming old cooper-smith alley where we heard music students practicing – made for a perfect evening. Langeviele, Middelburg’s pedestrian shopping avenue, was abuzz for people-watch.
After a regal sleep in our St Joris suite, breakfast at Hotel St Joris was lavish, fortifying us for our biking. Heather’s bike bell tip: Don’t miss the traditional Zeeland sweet pastry – bolussen. Must ride more now!
Day 2 Middleburg → Veere 8-miles (13 km)
An easy short hour ride along dikes protecting the lowland from the North Sea, paved paths brought us by postcard-perfect sheep, horses, cows. Soon we were veering into Veere, with a ubiquitous Bell tower, Church and this time – a pretty harbor, marina, and ferry dock.
Auberge de Campveerse – the grand tower on the waterfront by Veere’s ferry dock – was our lodging (lucky me I thought as we approached). This old-world tower has an elegant dining room, cozy creaky guest rooms with canopy beds, and harbor views even from our bathroom where I could see the Ferry boarding (but they couldn’t see me).
Strolling Veere’s cobbled streets brought us to shops selling local wool (from the flocks of sheep we witnessed on our bike ride), to the grand Stadhius City Hall, and the Grote Kerk (old church) – which is huge – but never finished. We lunched in a courtyard at Suster Anna, listening to the Carillon bell concert, then walked around the marina, to the original Windmill, watching sailboats ply the bay. Veere is the most dog-friendly Dutch town we’ve encountered yet! Pups everywhere. We loved Veere in the evening when the day tours, ferries and buses depart, and the little city is quiet, just locals and fortunate hotel and marina guests.
Heather’s bike bell tip: Dine at De Werf in Veere, overlooking the marina and Veere Yacht Club, sit outside, sip drinks enjoy a casual menu (mussels with frites or local fish), and watch yachts return to their slips.
Day 3 Veere → Zierikzee 25-miles (40-km)
Biking out on a quiet morning from Veere, we opted to cycle through the entire Oosterschelde National Park versus taking the ferry. Along the North Sea, on raised dikes, passing windmills, was a beautiful seaside ride, with abundant horses and sheep too. For miles we could see the daunting 6-km bridge Zeelandbrug we needed to cross into Zierikzee. This long bridge was incredible, a bit terrifying, but enjoyable within our protected bike lane barriered from the zooming cars and trucks. Off the bridge, we biked by fish processing factories, crossed a pretty old-fashioned wooded draw bridge, to Zierikzee’s medieval Zuidhavenpoort City Gate and rode along the waterfront dotted with cafes and boats. Eyeing the old Windmill, we checked in to the stylish waterfront Boutique Hotel Zeeuws-Meisje.
Zierikzee is a super quaint seaside town in the Dutch province of Zeeland, without train station or fanfare, a hidden coastal hideaway. Think fishing boats, medieval gates, grand squares, and salty air aplenty. Famed for its fishing (oysters, mussels and fish) medieval charm, yachty waterfront on the Haven canal, and intriguing cobbled streets, we loved Zierikzee enough to stay two nights. Entertainment included an impressive Triathlon where locals swam the canals, biked the cobblestone streets, then ran to their finish in Zierikzee’s heralded Haven Square. The Dutch can be very fit, and fierce!
Other sights: Zierkizee’s big unfished Fat Tower – Sint-Lievensmonstertoren, and the prettier Stadhuis and Belfry, plus the three ancient City Gates around the moated village of 12,000 locals. See our review of all the fun things to see do, eat and drink in Zierikzee, including our second night’s lodging at Pension Maertre with a top floor Sky View suite. Heather’s bike bell tip: fabulous women’s clothing shopping in Zierikzee, so save room in your pannier, or toss something you’re tired of to the housekeeper.
Day 4 Zierikzee → Willemstad 30-miles (49 km)
We cycled out of Zierikzee on a Sunday morn without seeing a single person or cafe open. Half our ride was pastoral, scenic, along dikes, by farmlands of sheep, cows and horses, then straight on shared roads into Willemstad. How fun to arrive in this historic village which was bustling with a Sunday Fun Run! Willemstad is named for Willem of Orange who founded the city in 1585. This fortified city and marina harbor is now home to just 3,000 Dutch locals, most of whom seemed out and about, smiling and enjoying their beautiful families, on this festive sunny September Sunday.
Staying at “Het Wapen van Willemstad” Hotel, we had a “lobster themed” room overlooking the marina and town square. Walking around Willemstad’s entire fortress ramparts, a moated star-shaped village raised above the waters of the Hollands Diep and the Biesbosch, we strolled by the 16th century Orange Windmill – still operating on special occasions, the Koepelkerk Church and Mauritius – City Hall named for Willem of Orange’s son Prince Mauritius. Asian-Dutch dinner at ElMiguel, we felt like the only “folks from away” which is special.
Day 5 Willemstad → Breda 20-miles (32 km)
Waving bye to Willemstad’s “Orangewindmill” with the wind at our backs (mostly), we pedaled 20-miles along dikes, pastures of grazing sheep, cows and horses, through several quaint towns. Heather’s bike bell tip: wish we’d stopped at a café for coffee and pastry in vibrant Zevenbergen. Approaching Breda, biking along Holland’s Diep waterfront, tall earthen-mound dikes prevented us from seeing the sea. Crossing over Breda’s Watergate Bridge by the Spanish Gates at the confluence of the Mark and Aa Rivers, we entered the fortified city. We could see the Royal Dutch Air Force Academy soldiers marching on campus behind ancient iron gates, this compound was once the 12th century Royal family Castle.
Breda’s lively Grote Markt Square was hosting a farmers’ market, while cafes and shops were brimming. The grand 1269 Church of Our Lady, however, was closed, under construction. So we walked the Valkenberg Park, through the historic peaceful Begijnhof convent, along cobbled streets, then strangely we were in modern shopping mall. So we found a café table in Grote Markt in the sun to sit and enjoy the people parade – students, elders. Breda is home to over 150,000 Dutch citizens. While we enjoyed Breda, we decided to move on after one overnight, didn’t love our lodging, and pivoted to Bergen op Zoom – so glad we did!
Day 6 Breda → Bergen op Zoom 28-miles (45 km)
Zooming along designated bike paths with a breeze at our back, a humbling moment was passing a WW2 cemetery where over 1,200 Dutch locals are buried – result of the 5-year Nazi occupation here. Its incredible how much of Belgium and The Netherlands were decimated by Nazi troops, and yet so much has been restored – along with their national pride. In a few hours, we were biking into one of the most beautiful plazas yet, surrounded by the requisite Belfry, Gertrudiskerk, and Stadhuis with delightful surrounding cafes and hotels. Only thing missing in Bergen op Zoom? Tourists!
We loved our Suite at 4-star Grand Hotel de Draak (dragon) – one of the oldest hotels in Netherlands at 1397, overlooking Bergen’s Grote Markt. Soon we were exploring the ancient city, the old Gevangenpoort Prison Gate, Isle Ravelijn’s pentagon shaped island fortress, and just the labyrinth of beautiful brick and cobble streets to lovely neighborhoods and the waterfront. Great shopping too, but we didn’t have time! A tasty “toast” lunch (love the fresh local bread sandwiches) at Prins Heerlijk on the square, and dinner at Le Governor were delightful. Heather’s bike bell tip: Delifrance for a breakfast pastry and coffee, although it’s a franchise, is wonderful, before saddling up to bike!
Day 7 Bergen op Zoom → Den Bosch ‘s-Hertogenbosch 30-miles (48-km)
We opted for a train ride versus biking over 30-miles into a head wind. Navigating bikes and panniers on and off trains is tricky, but the Dutch are helpful and accustomed to commuters bringing bikes. Heather’s bike bell tip: Be sure you find the “bike” train car – look for the bike logo, buy a ticket for yourself and your bike. Cycling out of Den Bosch’s station, I was admiring the grand Golden Dragon statue poised above a canal bridge, and realized I’d best focus on all the cyclists commuting. What a lively city, I wanted to take it all in – Den Bosch’s fantastic skyline, the Stadhuis, Belfry and the 1320 Sint Janskathedral.
Den Bosch is a delightful mix of historic squares and contemporary dining, shopping and lodging well-preserved city of about 160,000 residents. Along Den Bosch’s Kerk Straat (Church Street) we found our chic Duke Boutique Hotel where we’d reserved the very best room – the palatial Duke Suite with floor to ceiling picture windows overlooking the city. While we missed the boat, a boat tour around all the hidden canals of Den Bosch, we enjoyed exploring the pedestrian plazas, shops along fashionable Verwersstraat, and café-lined Korte Putstraat – which we dubbed “restaurant row.” Lunch here at Bopla provided wonderful tapas in a fun atmosphere. Dinner at Coco outside under a heat lamp was perfection, watching couples walking hand-in-hand out for date night, as she had delicious salmon, he had Lobster Thermador. Wine pours and service were generous and amiable, as was the fall evening ambiance. Den Bosch was even prettier at night under twinkly lights, with the church bells chiming.
Day 8 Den Bosch → Bakel via Beek en Donk 30-miles (48 km)
30 miles biking by lush fields and farms, following a stream, often a wind blocking tree canopy, and occasionally on bike paths (fietspad) alongside the major road, we stopped in the humble town of Beek en Donk (fun to say), two hours in of our three, for lunch at the pretty ParkPavillion – only to find it closed – so we had a local burger at Café De Smickel, lip smacking – smakelijk in Dutch! Our remote countryside ride led us to Bed & Breakfast Op d’n Kreijtenberg. What a peaceful pastoral setting this natural but modern lodge offers. Our neat room looked at green space, so relaxing.
Since Kreijtenberg is a few miles from any town, we enjoyed the Lounge, the serene setting and honor bar. For dinner, we rode our bikes to the nearest place, Golf Stippelberg – a lovely country club for casual Schnitzel dinner and a commanding view of the 18th hole. Breakfast in the morn at Kreijtenberg was a delightful tower of scrumptious treats: local cheeses and meats, fruit and nuts, pastries and fresh bread, plus an egg, and a perfect yogurt parfait. Innkeeper Frank even lit candles, made cappuccino, as we arrived in his lovely lounge. Leaving such a relaxing resort was melancholy, as we’d also met fun fellow guests – a Florida horse trader and British textile purveyor – both here on “business.”
Day 9 Milheeze → Venlo 30-miles (48 km)
Our big ride began organically, cycling through quiet countryside with the “fresh” scent of farms and hay, passing mushroom, onion, turnip, potato, cattle and pig farms. We even passed a rose farm – too bad we couldn’t smell that in the wind! The Dutch are industrious global food producers, their saying, “producing twice as much food using half as many resources”. We had our share of sheep and goats on our ride, sometimes we paralleled the train tracks, other times the busy highways and massive food processing and packaging plants. The Venlo skyline loomed with steeples, a welcome view. Following bike paths, we navigated into Venlo’s attractive city with so many squares, a population of 100,000. Heather bike bell tip: a red circle sign with a bike means NO biking in the pedestrian zone. OOPS! We rode up to our B&B Prins Hedrink, where the hostess stowed our bags and assured us our historic room would be ready by 2pm.
Venlo is an intersting hub, for centuries it’s been a major trading back to Roman times, called the “German corner” for its proximity to Dusseldorf, Cologne and Duisburg. I noted the local complexion had changed, less Dutch and more immigrants in this border city.
Venlo’s renaissance 1597 Stadhuis stands proudly in Grote Markt Square, surrounded by cafes, with the “newer” 1879 St Martinuskerk towering above. Venlo has vibrant shopping on its pedestrian Parade Straat, ice cream and frites shops, and too many enticing cafés. We loved our lunch at the Bier Garden Brouwersplats, and dinner in the chic Grand Café DeKeulse Kar with its flamboyant fabulous inside, or an alfresco patio on Parade as a great venue too! A delicious Apertivo (complimentary snacks) in this romantic restaurant, led to my best Vitello Tonnato yet – a wonderful dish of thin sliced veal in a tuna cream sauce with capers (Heather’s tip: Sounds eclectic – but try Vitello Tonnato- its delish)! A nightcap in the old Square under twinkling lights, listening to church bells and happy chatter, was just right!
Day 10 Venlo → Roermond 21 Miles
One of our prettiest rides yet, natural and beautiful along the mighty Maas River, our biking including two $2 Euro bike ferry rides across the Maas River. Heather’s bike bell tip: Wonderful bike/pedestrian ferries crisscross the Maas River. The Captain pushes off when you arrive or the boat is full, whichever suits him. A wonderfully renovated ancient-meets-mod castle in Kessel and lots of horse, sheep, fluffy highland cows, plus an authentic working 15th century windmill in Beesel, kept me amused on our 2-hour ride.
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iving in Roermond we rode into the Grote Markt just in time for the noon carillon bells when the characters atop the Belfry do a little dance. Roermond’s fabulous plaza with its requisite Stadhuis City Hall, was bustling on Saturday – as a big market filled the square with vendors, shoppers and café goers. We walked our bikes through the pedestrian zones, passing busy shops and bistros galore, and arrived at the modern riverfront Grand Hotel Valies – to our suite with a balcony.
A boat ride along the Maasplassen – the largest continuous water sports area in the Netherlands, would have been lovely, but was booked. Heather’s bike bell tip: Book canal boat trips and other popular attractions upon arrival. Instead we enjoyed walking around Roermond, visiting three amazing churches – St Christoph and Munster. Of note, Roermond is home to the famous Dutch architect Pierre Cuypers, his home and his style live on. Impressive that Roermond was completely rebuilt, authentically, after a month of Nazi bombing in WW2. US Allies forces finally liberated the mostly-demolished city of Roermond in 1944.
Dinner that night was superb in downstairs our Grand Hotel Valies at Nodi overlooking the canal. Octopus, wonderful focaccia, and delicious homemade Italian pasta. Breakfast next morning was included and lovely in the Hotel well, where we met hikers on the pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostello. And we thought our bike trip was impressive!
Day 11 Roermond → Maastricht 36 miles (58 km)
This was a spectacular ride complete with Instagramable swans, wild horses, splendid countryside, farms and fields, along the Maas River (Meuse) which separates Belgium, Germany and The Netherlands. We crossed bike bridges, admiring the massive lock systems that allow cargo ships to ply this important trade route (in existence since Roman times). Our ride however was Sunday, which meant for lots of bike traffic, spandex-clad peloton groups on high performance bikes whizzing by, and families and couples on Ebikes out for a ride with pups in basket and kids in buckets. A ferry ride across the Maas – and the Border (Greg noted the Belgium flag on the boat) brought us to the cute town of Maas for spicy Thai lunch at Two Kings. Heather’s Bike Bell Tip: Its a welcome treat to eat international foods in Europe, wonderful Italian, Asian, French, Spanish… when you are fried on mussels and frites.
Riding into Maastricht, we were detoured off our beloved bike route for a running race, but made it to town across someone’s pucker-brush field. Maastricht was busting at the seams with Sunday go’ers, and a marvelous Music fest with too many free venues to count. We rode into Vrijthof Grand Square, admiring one of Netherlands’s oldest cities – as evidence by the 12th century Basilica St Servatius where Servatius’ 386 AD tomb lies in the Crypt. The acoustics of live music we encountered all afternoon in Maastricht’s stone churches, plazas, and halls was magnificent, a pinch me moment!
Maastricht was a delightful Dutch surprise, a cultural mix of ancient and youthful – fairytale and fun, even a mod fashion show in the Plaza! Our lodging was a grand suite at Maastricht Maison Haas Hustinx & Spa overlooking the majestic pedestrian plaza. We had a wonderful Spanish tapas dinner at Café Madrid, and strolled the pretty lit streets afterwards.
Day 12 Maastricht → Liege → Brussels 23 miles (37 km) biking to Liege and a final 1-hour train back to Brussels
Our 23-mile ride to Liege started through a pretty park then a steep climb into the Ardennes foothills. Fortunately, we found a perfect café Van Wijck St Peter open for a coffee and pastry with a view of Maastricht below. Our ride continued up the hillside, through St Petersburg Park, passing the Vrijthof Caverns, which is now modern mining. Interestingly, you can tour the historic caves that served as hiding places for many locals during WWII. Over 230-kilometers of caves and tunnels, some natural – some manmade, bore into these foothills. Our biking descent from the cave-riddled hills was exciting, winding through an ancient neighborhood and onto the Maas River again for miles, over bridges, passing locks and hydroelectric dams.
Approaching Liege, back to Belgium, our scenery became more industrial, but even zipping through this busy city, we rode wonderful back paths under bridges, over the river, to Liege’s modern glass train station. We rushed to make a train, only to have difficulty finding the “bike” car, so we waited for the next train 30 minutes later to Brussels. Heather’s Bike Bell Tip: With bicycles you cannot get off the train in Brussels Central Station. You must get off the at “Brussels North” with bicycles. And just like that, we were back to our origins in beautiful Brussels, 21 days of fun “cross-country” cycling 494 miles (795 km) and spectacular sightseeing, wonderful Dutch cheese, Belgian frites and beers – Cheers!
See our Belgium bike tour 10-Day itinerary we enjoyed prior to this Netherlands 12-days!
See our Belgium bike tour leading to this Netherland bike tour itinerary.
Also see our 12 Day Holland Friesland Bike Tour Itinerary – Amsterdam to North Holland, The Friesland and back, remote spectacular places that remain largely unchanged along the Zuiderzee waterways.
Our 8 Day Holland Cheesy Bike Tour takes you from Amsterdam to Gouda, Delft, The Hague, Leiden, Haarlem, Alkmaar, and Edam, and back to Amsterdam, on a pleasing cheesy tour of wonderful cities and windmill-dotted bike paths.
“Travel and vacation are two different pastimes”
See more on Visiting the Netherlands
More Self Guided Bike Tours in Europe
Amsterdam to Friesland self-guided cycle tour
Amsterdam Cheese Bike tour – to Gouda, Delft, Leiden, Alkmaar, Edam, Volendam and back
Bike Trip of Austria’s Danube River – self-guided tour
France Bike Tour of the Loire Valley – Self-Guided-cycle itinerary
How to Pack for a Bike Trip in a Pannier