Amsterdam to Friesland Bike Tour self guided cycling Holland

12 Day Holland Amsterdam to Friesland Bike Tour Itinerary

Exploring the Netherlands by bike is the ultimate bike tour. Flat, designated paved bike paths traverse the beautiful countryside, passing windmills and farms, canals and dikes. Here’s one of two bike itineraries we enjoyed cycling “Holland” – it was magical, and very do-able. Here is our 12 Day Holland self-guided bike tour, great fun and good value- far less than expense than a bike barge tour, or a BackRoads guided bike trip, and you are independent to go at your own pace, free from group dynamics and logistics.

We rented bikes from RentaBike.NL – the oldest bike rental of Amsterdam, since 1986, ideally located in the center of Amsterdam near Dam Square, a 10-minute walk from the grand Centraal Train Station. We picked up our bikes on arrival in Amsterdam, from the friendly helpful bike rental proprietors Yun and Yan. We pedaled around the bike-friendly, but busy, capital city. See our review of Amsterdam things to do. After a day in Amsterdam, we were ready to hit the road for quieter, more quaint Dutch towns. We carried our “luggage” in panniers on our bikes. See our guide on how to pack for a bike trip.

Departing Amsterdam, we hopped on a free ferry by the train station, in good company with local cycling commuters and pleasure bikers. 80% of the Dutch regularly bicycle, and you witness that cycling is king here with designated two-lane bike lanes in cities, and all over the countryside. Even in bustling Amsterdam, bikes have priority over cars and pedestrians!

Day 1 Amsterdam to Hoorn 32 Miles…
We biked 32 exhilarating miles to Hoorne. Just a few miles out of Amsterdam, after the ferry crossing the North Sea Canal, we peddled through quieter neighborhoods. Soon beautiful countryside, long flat farmlands lay ahead. I excitedly spotted my first cows and sheep grazing next to our perfectly paved bike path. Then a classic windmill appeared, pretty as a postcard. Little did I know how common these delightful Dutch scenes would be over the coming days. Our first of many marina towns was Monnickendam, where we pedaled over old-fashioned bridges, admiring wooden yachts in harbor. I was tempted to stop for a coffee and “stroop” (stroopwaffel), but we settled on a few photos and rode on.

Arriving in the seaside town of Volendam, we lunched along the famed famous Havendijkje dike and boardwalk, locking our bikes in sight. The dish of three fish: smoked salmon, eel and tuna, was delish at Lotje, with a view of schooners, fishing and pleasure boats, in the marina overlooking the large body of water – the Zuiderzee. Volendam was touristy, but cute, a fishing village that has adapted over the centuries.

Our day’s ride ended in the charming city of Hoorn. The Roode Steen Central Square was a picture out of a Dutch fairytale – a time warp of Golden Age lions and ornate steeples. Hoorn is a very attractive, friendly town for strolling. Just beware of dog doo and cigarette butts too (surprisingly the Dutch don’t pick up – they’re such tidy folk otherwise). Our modern lodging at Ysbrantsz Boutique Hotel was clean and neat, and our dinner downstairs that night was excellent – the best fish soup. Before departing the next morning, a bold cappuccino and flakey pastry at Bakker van Hoorn was perfect “bike fuel”.

Day 2 Hoorn to Enkhuizen to Stavoren to Hindeloopen, 21 miles…
Riding along the raised earth berm dike, we had views out to sea, and down to the lowland farms on the opposite side. Clever engineering these Dutch, protecting their homes, farms and livestock from potential flooding. We felt our first wind, which we’d been warned about… its flat cycling, but the wind can be a push-back, explains all the windmills. We did not rent e-bikes, opting for “me-bikes” or “we bike” we joked. In the delightful old harbor town of Enkhuizen, we had a lovely lunch at Dubble and Dwars of “tosti” (Dutch grilled cheese) before boarding the ferry across the Sea to the pretty port town of Stavoren – in the Friesland. We rode quietly along more mounded dikes, with sheep climbing the steep banks to graze the grass, cheaper than mowing I suppose, and far more charming.

Soon we arrived at the 800-year-old town of Hindeloopin. We dubbed this Dutch town “the land where times stands still.” Finding our Atelier BnB Sinnestriel along the quiet cobble alleyways was a challenge in this quiet village. Our innkeeper proudly told us how they still often don traditional costumes and celebrate their heritage in this timeless town of 800 (very tall fit) Frisians. The leaning medieval Church tower was aglow at sunset on our stroll after a local fish dinner at Suddersee – a splendid reward for our day’s trek.

Day 3 Hindeloopen to Sneek 18 miles…
Our beautiful bike ride, into the wind, amid more sheep, and magnificent Friesian draft horses in pastures, brought us to the impressive 1613 Watergate Canal Bridge of Sneek (pronounced snake). This youthful but historic town had great outdoor cafes, modern shops, and much to stroll and see including the 1498 Martini Church. Our chic studio apartment Valentjin was perfect to relax and rest up.

Day 4 & 5 Sneek to Harlingen 22 miles…
We “snuck” out of Sneek as school kids and commuters were riding in. All along paved bike paths, we passed cow fields into the northern Friesland town of Harlingen. This busy boating harbor on the Waddenzee (a UNESCO heritage site) is among the oldest – dating to 1234! We felt like the only Americans in this important trade port, including our canal tour which was conducted entirely in German and Dutch. That was our only encounter of no-English during our entire trip. That evening at an elegant waterview dinner at Havenmantsje, locals told us to star gaze in the clear open sky this far north, but our eyes closed early in our Apart De Bank suite after cycling. We stayed in Harlingen two nights for a little “holiday” from our bike holiday.

Day 6 Harlingen to Leeuwarden to Steenwijk to Geithorn 30 miles…
A train ride to Leeuwarden (with our first overcast skies of our September trip) connected us to Steenwijk, thanks to the aid of a Dutch biker and the train ticket checker for showing us the protocol. After a pleasant bike ride skirting rain showers, we arrived at the serene resort of De Lindenhof – a beautiful Michelin foodie destination in Giethorn with elegant lodging and dining. Greg splurged on this one (mid-trip which was perfect timing), and it was appreciated, from the regal reception to our garden terrace room to the evening’s 9 course dinner. Dropping off our 20-pound bike pannier luggage, we rode our (much lighter) bikes for miles through the verdant Wieden National Park, with a lunch stop in the harbor village of Blokjiz, then into the quaint village of Giethorn that makes everyone’s “cutest Dutch town” list. Unfortunately, Giethorn is now overrun with tourists, busloads who rent boats and clog the narrow passages taking “selfies.” We called it “canal chaos” as Asians in dinghies crashed into ancient bridges of this otherwise charming car-free village. We were happy to retreat to our peaceful suite at DeLindenhof, have cocktails in our private sculpture garden, followed by an elegant 2-hour gourmet repas, then sleep dreaming of sheep. After an 8 course Chef’s breakfast next morning, wow, we biked through Giethorn again to better appreciate this treasured gem before the day’s onslaught of throngs.

Day 7 Giethorn to Zwolle 21 miles…
Arriving in the citadel of Zwolle, we road bikes over the wooden ramparts into the oldest fortified Netherlands’ city with its own natural harbor. This 8th-century star-shaped bastion is now a very youthful place. Our lodging in the 1896 Hotel Staatsman was grand – we were sleeping in the Queen’s commissioner suite. Zwolle’s city center “Nieuwe Markt” is very old, and breathtaking with magnificent clock towers and church steeples, plus vibrant cafés for people watching. We climbed the Peperbus Tower (named for its shape like a peppergrinder?) for a few more steps, ok 250 steps! Then we climbed the ancient Sassenpoort City Gate and Clock Tower where the Dutch docent proudly told us Zwolle’s history. A cozy dinner in a local brasserie, and I slept like a princess in the Queen’s suite. Our (included) fresh breakfast, delivered in a delightful wooden box, was served in the golden age dining room of this old City Hall, fortifying us for our bike ride “against the wind” again. Fun fact: these smaller Dutch cities have the architectural and cultural charm that Amsterdam once did, only far less busy, with more engaging locals.

Day 8 Zwolle to Harderwijk 31 miles…
We biked in rain, wind, sun, then a rainbow, along quiet flat farmlands loaded with cows, horse, goats and sheep for miles. The livestock were unsympathetic about the “weather” in our face, hardly took a pause from chewing to view us cycling by. Entering Harderwijk’s ancient city gates, we were in a waterfront beach town. The “Strandboulevard” overlooks a small beach, and the Wolderwijd lake. Harderwijk was a vital port in 14^th century shipping trade on the Hanseatice Sea, part of the Dutch West Indies trade routes. The cluster of streets led to some neat shops and cafes. This village is surely busier in summer with its beach and dolphinarium amusement park.

Day 9 Harderwijk to Amersfoort 22 miles…
A bucolic ride brought us to the 12^th century walled city of Amersfoort. Passing through the grand brick gates along canals brought us to De Hof Square – a car-free picturesque plaza. Here St Joris medieval church towers over the square, complete with an animated cuckoo clock at the top of every hour. After a great lunch in the square at De Professor, we climbed the 98-meter Onze Leive Tower (that’s 321 steps) for a commanding view, breathtaking! Our afternoon of strolling flower-lined alleys including the “prettiest street” of Muurhuize was romantic. Dinner was Dutch BBQ, yes it’s a thing, at Hete Kolen (translation: hot coals).

Day 10 Amersfoort to Naarden 18 miles…
Biking by more sheep, cows, windmills, we were soon entering the star-shaped fortified city of Naarden, just east of Amsterdam. This very pretty village has more fascinating history, as we learned at the Dutch fortress museum. Naarden was the 16th-century birthplace of the Dutch Waterline Concept – an engineering plan to protect the entire country strategically with dams, walls and flooded moats that could foil attacks by the Spanish and French. Our BnB was charming at Room One Twenty-One next to the ancient Arsenault. Dinner nearby at Aquavite was surprisingly chic in the old underground bastion.

Day 11 Naarden to Muiden to Amsterdam 22 miles …
Cycling back towards Amsterdam, we stopped at the most amazing castle in Muiden. This beautifully maintained 1285 castle is grand, with a tremendous history of centuries. The Muiden Castle self-guided tour is well worth it, from the dungeon to the royal living quarters to the secret gardens, and the surrounding moat. If these walls could talk, I thought.

Soon we were back to the hustle and bustle of Amsterdam, eager to do another Netherlands cycle tour. And that’s exactly what we did! Meeting our son and daughter-in-law, we rested a night in Amsterdam then set out on another bike tour, this time south of Amsterdam to cheese country. See our bike itinerary to Gouda, Delft, The Hague, Leiden, Haarlem, Alkmaar, and Edam, and back to Amsterdam.

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