Belgium Bike Tour

Belgium at Europe’s heart, is a multilingual land of medieval towns, chocolate and beer, and a country that lives and breathes cycling. Biking is a source of tremendous national pride, and its the best way to see Belgium on glorious designated bike paths, leading to magical cities, Brussels to Antwerp, Ghent, and Bruges.

We started our Belgian bike tour in Brussels – a great hub for a cycle tour, flying into the convenient airport, boarding a swift train within the airport to downtown’s Central station, a juxtaposition of old architecture and modern flair in this city of 1.2 million.

From Brussels Central Train Station, a short walk, we were in Brussels’ brilliant Grand Square, where the 15th-century lavish Stadhuis (City Hall) anchors a fairytale Grote Markt pedestrian plaza. What a sight to behold – have a Belgian beer at a café to take it all in! See our review on the fun things to see and do, drinks and eat in Brussels. Don’t worry – it’s not a bunch of Brussel sprouts, but lots of Belgian chocolate, mussels with frites, and beer – cheers!

We rented wonderful sturdy bikes for our entire tour from Bike-Packer in Brussels. Heather’s bike bell tip: reserve in advance, with locks and a pannier rack for luggage. See tips on how to pack your panniers for a DIY bike trip! Note: you can leave your luggage back with Bike Packer during your ride and retrieve them on your return.

Our first night at Rocco Forte Hotel Amigo was perfect, a luxury hotel just a block from Brussels’ Grand Square. We toasted our anticipated journey at Beer World in the elegant Stock Exchange building, with a €15 tour that ends at the rooftop bar including your first beer with a spectacular view of Brussels’ spires, churches and rooftops (after 4:30 you can skip the tour and just head to the roof top bar via the Gold Elevator). A luxurious sleep, a bountiful Hotel Amigo breakfast in the morning, and we saddled up to pedal out, bye for now to the pretty city.

Day 1 Brussels → Leuven 20 miles (32 km)
Leaving Brussel was a bit chaotic, with cars, trams and buses, pedestrians and other bikers zipping along. Construction too, it happens with an old city. Heather’s bike bell tip: Brussels cobblestones streets that can be slippery when wet. Biking up to Monts des Arts, we cycled through the grand gates of Cinquantenaire Arcade, completed in 1905 to celebrate Belgium’s independence (75 years prior 1830).

Brussels’ disappeared as we cycled into vast neighborhoods, followed by dense forest for a bit – where the bike path turned to packed dirt, then pastoral countryside passing rivers with Instagram-able swans and a castle in Tervuren Park, and fields of corn on once-again-paved way to Leuven, Mechelen, Antwerp, Ghent and Bruges, using the Komoot app.

Leuven was an obvious and easy first stop, just 20 miles from Brussels. What a gem of a city, youthful but historic, small but interesting, and the hub of Beer! Leuven (Louvain in French) is a college town, 1425 Leuven University, the Beer Capital of the World – as the birthplace of Stella Artois, and now home to the biggest beer distributor – AB InBev which also owns Anheuser Busch, Bud & Corona. The town actually smells of beer at times!

After dropping our bags and bikes at Begijnhof Hotel, a modern reno of an old convent home, we set out to explore Leuven, (Heather’s bike bell tip: hotels are usually accommodating to let you drop off bags, and store bikes before check in). A walking tour was a perfect overlay of Leuven’s local history and the Grote Markt where Leuven’s ornate Stadhuis City Hall stands with its 235 statues! Gothic St. Peter’s Church tower was impressive as well. Martelarenplein is a delightful square lined with gabled houses and lively cafés, with a centerpiece Memorial quietly honoring those lost in World Wars—an evocative reminder that Leuven, like much of Belgium, has seen its share of history.

De Oude Markt is the most amusing grand square, with medieval guild house, now turned into “Europe’s longest bar” with too many bars to count, serving college kids beers ‘til the wee hours! This “Old Market” was bombed in WW1 then completely rebuilt in 1914 but looks authentic – in a move set way! We loved Leuven, a smaller scale Brussels, where you can sip a Stella in a happening square, surrounded by ornate architecture, and so much history. See more on Leuven.

Day 2 Leuven → Mechelen 20-miles (32 km)
Biking along pretty canals on ancient tow paths, we chatted about how horses once pulled river barges of supplies on these now paved dedicated bike ways. Heather’s bike bell tip: Belgian cyclists zip by you with no warning, little handlebar space, as if they are training for the Tour De France, and perhaps they are!

Arriving in Mechelen, we were charmed immediately with its grand square, the Grote Markt, which is surrounded by 1245 St Rumbold Church and the Belfry Tower (which we climbed – all 100-meters up). Mechelen has so many pretty pedestrian streets and squares, it’s a UNESCO heritage site. We enjoyed our stay, strolling quiet canals, finding cute cafes, enjoying Mechelen’s pleasant vibe, to the chime of Caralon church bells, every 7.5 minutes!

Day 3 Mechelen → Antwerp 20 miles (32 km)
Biking along raised dikes above rivers, then into quaint Dutch neighborhoods, we viewed traditional old brick houses juxtaposed with tidy modern stone homes. The last few miles as we entered the urban sprawl of Antwerp was bustling, with busy bike lanes, crisscrossing roads and pedestrians. Heather’s bike bell tip: keep up with Belgians cyclists, go with the flow, bikers have priority, even their own traffic lights. Suddenly, we were in the grand Grote Market of Antwerp surrounded by the most magnificent city square!

There is so much to see and do in Antwerp, see our review. Antwerp is the world’s diamond trade capital, an historic essential port, and a hub of Flemish art and fashion. Add to that chocolate shops, museums, and architecture that range from Gothic spires to modernism. Don’t miss Antwerp’s beautiful train station, and Chocolate Nation next door. Get your selfie with Brabo, the impressive statue in Grote Markt. Then grab a seat at café in the pedestrian plaza for a pinch-me moment, cheers with a Belgian beer, in this fairytale setting of guilded façade houses and the glamorous Stadhuis flanked with every EU flag.

Stroll down to the Shelde River to see Antwerp’s medieval Het Steen castle and City Gate, then walk to the modern MAS riverside building. Consider the underground De Ruien tunnel tour (book in advance) and Ruben’s Haus– where the prolific painter created thousands of classics! See more on Antwerp’s best things to do, sights and best bites and where to stay for your special night in the dazzling diamond city of Antwerp!

Day 4 Antwerp → Ghent 34-miles (55 km)
Our day’s adventure started underwater, biking the Sint Annatunnel below the Shelde River. This bike tunnel is a speedy exit with the day’s efficient, fast-rising cyclist commuters. Heather’s bike bell tip: watch for Antwerp’s beautiful old mahogany escalator at the end. Our ride was straightforward from here, paralleling the train tracks most of the way to Ghent, into a stiff wind no less. Flat well-paved bike paths brought us to beautiful Ghent, through the old City Gates to this gorgeous canal-woven city.

Ghent is like Amsterdam only more humble, happy and manageable, with its pretty canals, cobblestones, and Gothic skyline, plus a youthful student vibe. Ancient abbeys and Ghent’s lavish Stadhuis sit alongside street art alleys and cool cafes playing trendy music. After touring the Castle of Counts, we savored the best Waterzooi stew at elegant Allegro Moderato, then relaxed during our delightful canal boat ride. Gliding under photogenic St. Michael’s stone bridge and past St. Peter’s 7^th century Abbey, was like Disney ride through history. That evening, strolling Groentenmarkt Square all lit up, we admired St Bavo’s Cathedral and the 1425 Belfry (we’d climbed the 254 steps early) we were grateful for our night in Ghent, and our posh canal view room at Hotel Harmony. See al our tips on visiting Ghent

Heather’s bike bell tip: Have a wonderful Ghent breakfast at Caffe Rosario, the best Belgian hot chocolate and fresh baked croissants overlooking Vrijdagmarkt, fuel to bike out of Ghent with grateful memories!

Day 5 Gent → Bruges 30-miles (48 km)
Our big bike day began riding against the tide, if you will, as bike commuters (students, elders, business workers) poured into the city, as we exited. Soon we were on the peaceful Ghent/Bruges Canal, dredged in the 1700s. The ride was straight, scenic enough, with a tree canopy that buffed the strong winds. Heather’s bike bell tip: You encounter lots of winds in Belgium, hence the windmills, on otherwise flat unchallenging countryside. Part of our ride was rather industrial, as this is a major trade waterway. Large barges passing through locks, emptying their cargo at various warehouses on the way, as we biked by. We also waved to a few Le Boat – pleasure river boats – plying the meandering canals, a fun adventure we’d enjoyed in France in their canal system as a boating-biking-wine holiday. Soon the medieval skyline and spires of Bruges came into view, and we were passing through one of 8 grand brick City Port gates, over a bridge and cobblestones as we entered the circular moated city.

Bruges is nicknamed the Venice of Belgium, and immediately we were cycling over cobblestones bridges, where swans glided along serene canals. Markt Square, the heart of Bruges since 958 (that’s no typo) was abuzz with horse-drawn carriages, lively cafés, and medieval shops with lace curtain fluttering in the breeze. Looming large, we had to climb the Belfry of Bruges (Belfort), 366 steps up the crooked tower for a sweeping view of rooftops and canals, with the clanging of 47 bells for extra theatrical effect. We popped into the gothic Stadhuis, an impressive hall and city meeting place, and the mysterious Basilica of the Holy Blood which houses relics from the Crusades. Janshospitaal was another worthy tour, showcasing medieval medical “hospitality’ – the etymology of a word we’ve lost in modern hospitals. St Jans also hosts amazing masterpieces by Belgian Hans Memling, don’t miss the attic’s modern display of his world. Stepping into the massive Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekerk (Church of Our Lady) we had a glimpse of Michelangelo’s extraordinary Madonna and Child. See more on touring Bruges.

Bruge’s canal boats looked sardine-full, so we just strolled pretty pedestrian alleyways and cobblestone streets, popping into chocolate and lace shops. Vlaminck served up savory Belgian stews for lunch, while the cozy Mozart Restaurant Brugge offered delicious plentiful ribs in a charming atmosphere. Duc de Bourgogne was our most romantic restaurant with a corner table perched over the canal. We watched the canal boats pass, loaded with tourists, as we sipped wine, savored mussels in wine, local lamb, salmon – an excellent 3 course menu concluded with my appletart and Belgian chocolate for him. Once again the Belfry chimed, it was bedtime.

Our charming BnB Barabas offered a modern room with fireplace, and the Inn’s canal view terrace was perfect for afternoon cocktails from the honor bar. Breakfast was lavish with a tower of treats – local cheese and breads, fruit, salmon, eggs, even chocolate – with candlelight. Perfect fuel for our biking – out of Bruge-iful Bruges.

Day 6 Bruges → Middelburg Netherlands 35-miles (56 km)
We followed the bike path along Bruges’ moat by four authentic windmills. Cycling the peaceful canal that stretches to Damme, a quiet pretty village, and into The Netherlands (border crossing is uneventful-unmarked), we found ourselves in vibrant Sluis – a vital port town since the Middle Ages. A wind shift and salty scent indicated we were heading toward the sea, riding into Netherlands’ National Park along the North Sea. Views across the “Zeeland” channel revealed huge cargo ships lumbering across the sea, while cute beach cabanas fluttered on the sandy beach below our bike route. It was a beautiful invigorating 34 miles ride to Middelburg, including a 5-mile ferry (exclusively for bikes and passengers) across the channel to Zeeland Island for our next few days.

We biked the Netherlands from here, to beautiful cities – Middelburg, Veer, Zierikzee, Willemstaad, Breda, Bergen op Zoom, Den Bosch, Venlo to Roermond, and Maastricht… then back into Belgium, returning to Brussels where we began our cycle adventure.

See our Netherlands 12-day Zeeland bike tour round-trip returning to Brussels. Or you can bike back to Brussels from Antwerp, Bruges, or Ghent. for a shorter loop.

As we wheeled back into Brussels, legs strong and hearts full, we realized Belgium is not just a place you visit—it’s a country you ride through, one bell ring, one beer, one breathtaking square at a time. See why bike trips are better?