Acadia

Maine is magical, especially in summer. And Acadia is its crown jewel. Revered as a top National Park, Mount Desert Island is glacially fascinating, where mountains rise from the Atlantic, rugged granite shores descend to tidepools and chilly swimming beaches, and the bay is dotted with remote islands. Acadia has a rich history, and so much to explore, 47-miles of century-old Carriage Roads to walk, hike or bike, lighthouses, lobster, quiet seaside towns and so much more.

Catch an early sunrise on Cadillac Mountain, or a serene sunset high above the sea. Bike the pine draped Carriages Roads passing crystal clear lakes, riding over granite bridges, then feast on lobster at cozy authentic lobster shacks overlooking working fishing docks. If you like to kayak or paddleboard, wow – Mount Desert Island has so many waterways, salt and fresh, always scenic!

Here are some hints and tips to maximize your time on Acadia, and avoid the crowds, explore the majestic natural beauty, not just the bustle of Bar Harbor, and especially seek the Quieter Side of MDI to see the real Maine.

Acadia’s Park Loop is a great kick off for your MDI stay. Drive the Park Loop early, it’s a magnificent circuit, one of the most scenic drives in the world, from Hulls Cove Welcome Center, through the National Park Gates, where you pay and get your pass to display. The 27-mile (43 km) road also accesses Acadia’s popular attractions where you can stop, hike, swim, sightsee and get selfies, such as The Beehives, Sand Beach, Otter Point, Seal Cove, and Cadillac Mountain. To drive up Cadillac, a reservation time is required peak season, this is separate but accessible from the Park Loop.

Along Acadia’s Park Loop, much of which is two lane, one way, you’ll find picnic areas, scenic overlooks, and trailheads. Sand Beach is a top spot, park and walk down to this beautiful but cold bay of beach. Ocean Path is a great seaside walkway, 2-miles from Sand Beach to Thunder Hole – which is a natural phenomenon best viewed during big tides when waves spray 40’ in the air with a thunderous roar. Acadia’s free Island Explorer shuttle can take you here, and to most of the Island’s attractions.

For ambitious bicyclists, bike Acadia’s Park Loop for a stunning, challenging, 19-mile bike ride around the entire perfectly paved autoroad, with stellar views, and mostly one-way traffic. Ride early so you can bike with less traffic concerns, but be ready for significant hills and descents. This scenic Loop puts the “mount” in Mount Desert Island. Acadia Pro Bike tip: start at Fabbri, overlooking Seal Harbor after Otter Cliffs, be on your bike by 7-8am, to be ahead of the car traffic, and do the steepest hills first, then you’ll be riding by the most scenic spots with ideal timing.

Hikers, Acadia is paradise with “chutes and ladders” well, mostly ladders, at Beehive, the super steep (precarious) Precipice Trail, Jordan Cliffs, Beech Cliff, and more. Pro Hiking Tip: go early, well equipped with hiking footwear and gear, water, snacks, these are serious hikes, and these narrow trails become crowded by 10am, taking away from the raw natural beauty and challenge when you’re in a queue.

Cadillac Mountain’s scenic .3-mile walking trail around the summit provides spectacular 360 summit views of the Atlantic, islands and shores, lighthouses and tiny lobster fishing boats below in Frenchman’s Bay. Make your car reservation peak summer to drive up Cadillac’s 1,530’ summit. Sunrise seekers go up super early, read: in the dark, to see first daylight on this barren rocky top, while sun setters love the dramatic day’s end atop this Island at sea.
Cadillac Pro Tip: bring a picnic. The granite slabs are ideal for sitting and taking in the scene.

Acadia’s Jordan Pond Loop is a beautiful walk or bike around this crystal clear pond, crushed gravel carriage roads take you around the spectacular Bubbles, and by Jordan Pond House where you might stop for a popover and tea.
Pro Tip: Include Eagle Lake in your loop if you are feeling ambitious! Day Mountain here is another rewarding “highly” scenic ride.

Biking Acadia’s 45-miles of beautifully maintained carriage roads is a fantastic way to see so much of the Park. Impressive that wealthy visionary John D. Rockefeller, who summered here and built grand “summer cottages”, designed and oversaw the creation of these elaborate Carriage Roads for horseback riding and carriages. Fun to think his ingenuity, and desire to preserve this space for recreation, is now enjoyed by millions of bikers and hikers. As you travel along lakes, ponds, through pine-canopied forest, you’ll encounter architecturally stunning Gate Lodges, 17 granite arched bridges, and “Rockefeller’s teeth” which are perfectly placed granite cut stones marking the edge of the paths and roadways. Carriage Road Pro Tip: rent bikes, and cycle early, before the buses and picture-taking slow walkers arrive mid-morning.

Drive to Seal Harbor where magnificent summer cottages of the well-to-do cling to the cliffs and shores. Martha Stewert is here, she bought Edsel Ford’s 35,000-sq ft mansion. Billionaire David Rockefeller sold his 15-acre estate in 2018 for $19 mill, the new owner demolished the “Ringing Point” mansion with other grand plans.

Seek the Quiet Side of MDI! Somes Sound naturally divides the magical island from the busier eastern Bar Harbor side to the western “Quiet Side.” Somes Sound is a deep glacially formed fjord, the surrounding cliffs create a beautiful channel that separates Northeast Harbor from Southwest and Bass Harbor. Drive or bike down Sargent Drive on the eastern shores of Somes Sound, settled by the Somes family in the 1761, and visit the quaint seaside village of Northeast Harbor, with its pretty shops and cafes up the hill from the marina and waterfront. In NE Harbor, grand summer cottages and yachts are evidence of generational wealth. Grab a blueberry muffin at Colonel’s to bring down to the docks, after browsing the cute shops and museum. We loved paddleboarding this brilliant bay, around the impressive yachts – Egg Harbor, Hinkley’s and Sabre’s all made in Maine.

Northeast Harbor is famed for its gardens. Start at nearby Asticou Gardens, once part of the Asticou Inn next door. Just up the road, hike up granite steps to the lofty Thuya Gardens for an incredible view as well.

Pro Acadia Tip: Reserve a time at Abby Aldrich Rockefeller Gardens. This amazing flower-filled 15-acre property displays Abby & J.D. Rockefeller’s love for MDI, and their passion for travel with its Beijing walled garden. Be sure to walk out to Eyrie Terrace, all that remains of the 1910 Rockefeller 100-room mansion with a commanding view over the harbor, where they summered with their six children.

Fun Acadia Fact: Had Abby Aldrich Rockefeller not followed her NYC physician to Maine in 1908 (he summered in nearby Blue Hill) during her problematic pregnancy, Acadia National Park may never have been established. Abby & John D. Rockefeller’s first visit to Mount Desert Island, and the subsequent birth of their son Nelson in Bar Harbor, began their love affair with the Island. The Rockefellers invested deeply and later preserved much of the majestic Island by establishing Acadia National Park in 1919. As our docent said, “imagine how different the island would be if that never happened?”

Next, visit the recently renovated Asticou Inn for a chic lunch or a cocktail overlooking the inviting pool on the bayfront. The spectacular $28 mill renovation of the 1883 Inn is the work of Maine’s Midas-touch designer developer Tim Harrington, who also redesigned many Maine hotels in Kennebunkport. Better yet, check in for a few nights and stay here or its sister property, The Claremont in nearby Southwest Harbor. NE Harbor Pro tip: Copita is a superb restaurant for dinner in Northeast Harbor.

Departing Northeast on your way to Southwest Harbor, stop at Gallery at Somes Sound at the head of the bay to see authentic displayed Maine art, including paintings by David Witbek, William Hoyt, Craig Mooney, and gorgeous local furniture crafted from native wood.

Southwest Harbor is next as you round the island clockwise. Another cute mariners’ village, its fun to stroll the streets, and walk out to the Coast Guard Station, and Beals’ Lobster Pound on the docks for an authentic delish lobster roll. Or go to the Claremont Inn for a more refined setting. Pro Tip in Southwest: walk down to the docks at Dysart Marina to see the swells on their mega-yachts, their crews polish the shiny decks while fishermen offload their salty catch from humble boats. Grab a drink at Upper Deck overlooking the marina and harbor, before continuing on to Bass Harbor.

Visit Bass Harbor Headlight. On the southernmost point of Mount Desert, walk down to the Lighthouse perched on the point, explore the paths and Seawall here. Seek out another authentic lobster shack on the west side of Bass Harbor – Thurston’s.
Pro Shopping Tip: Don’t miss Slack Tide Gifts near Thurston’s, the cutest shop on MDI.

Get on a Boat, boarding a tour from Bar Harbor, the Margaret Todd Schooner is a fabulous day or sunset sailboat tour out to Egg Rock Light, spotting seals on your way.

Pro Tip on Boating: Even better on the wallet and more authentic, hop on a Ferry in Bass Harbor to an outer Island – Frenchboro or Swans Island, for about $25 round trip for a scenic 6-8 mile journey. These are car ferries, but you can board as pedestrians or bikers, typically without reservation, just arrive 10-minutes prior to departure time, go to Mainedot.gov/ferry for schedules. Not much to do on these islands so we recommend just staying on board for the round-trip inexpensive boat ride.

Shop Bar Harbor, its a fun town with kitschy gift shops, candy stores, ice cream parlors, Lobster roll cafes, waterfront boat tours, kayak excursions. While its fun to poke around “Bahbah” shops, you’ll soon find the people are pokey too!  Find an authentic Bar Harbor bar, a few remain. Sitting on Galyn’s porch overlooking the waterfront, enjoying chowder or lobster with a glass of wine is pretty sublime. Paddy’s Irish Pub on the waterfront is a great place for a pint as you watch the world go by, and tide rise and subside. Bar Harbor Pro Tip: check cruise ship arrivals, when cruise ships are in port, avoid Bar Harbor as Main Street is overrun.

Consider crossing to Bar Island, the namesake for Bar Harbor. At low tide, you can walk across the bar to rustic uninhabited Bar Island and enjoy views of the bay and Porcupine Island.

Bar Harbor Pro Tip: Don’t miss the beautiful Shore Path, which was completely redone after January 2024’s storm. This is a beautiful bayfront walkway, passing the perplexing Balance Rock, to Agamont Park and downtown, just beyond the classic Bar Harbor Inn.

There are so many hotels and inns in Bar Harbor, its mind-boggling, and busy! Staying at The Harborside or West Street Hotel are both superb options, with beautiful waterfront pools and resort services.

Pro Lodging Tip: Consider lodging on the Quiet Side of MDI, in western Somesville near Some Sound, Tremont, Bass Harbor, Northwest or Southeast Harbors. There are beautiful seaside Acadia homes to rent, a few seaside hotels like Asticou, Claremont, inns, and lots of campgrounds. Away from the traffic, closer to nature, we love the well-named Quiet Side of Mount Desert, you will too!

Lobster Lunch and Dinner – a Maine winner! All around the island you will find Lobster, lobster rolls, steamed lobster, plus various lobster iterations, served at rustic picnic shacks, dockside restaurants, and fancier sit-down restaurants with Lobster Bisque, Lobster pasta, and Baked Stuffed Lobster. Other Maine seafood gems are fresh scallops, mussels, oysters, clams (Mainahs call ‘em steamahs), crab and halibut!  Save rooms for homemade blueberry pie too. Even start your day with the Maine blueberry pancakes and Maine maple syrup, or a high-topped Blueberry muffin with melting butter.

Schoodic Peninsula is a must in Maine, off island, northeast from MDI but part of Acadia National Park, and less busy therefore. Rent a bike from Sky at Sea Schoodic Kayak and Bike, near the park entrance in Winter Harbor. Or you can drive the scenic 10-mile paved Schoodic Park Loop that takes you along stunning granite shores, with view of Mount Desert and Cadillac Mountain, plus verdant pines and tidal pools. Pro Tip for Schoodic: Bring a picnic to enjoy on a sunny granite promontory. Consider staying a few nights in this quieter area northeast of Mount Desert, lodging Winter Harbor or nearby Lamoine, its lovely.

Bartlett Winery offers a great wine tasting tucked off the main thoroughfare in Gouldsboro. The owners Kathe & Bob Bartlett opened Maine’s very first winery in 1975, long before the Maine Wine Trail and Maine Winery Guild was even a thought. The intriguing sculpture at the entrance leads you to pretty gardens and the simple but sophisticated winery. Their Wines are harvested from Maine fruit – blueberries, apple and pear. I love the French Oak Pear Wine, and the Wild Blueberry Semi-Sweet. They even bottle brandy and Rusticator Rum, its a fun tasting and tour.

Enjoy your time Down East Maine, and you’ll soon “sea” why Acadia is one of our nation’s most visited, #7 of our 63 National Parks. Mount Desert Island is spectacular, with so much to do and see. Bring your bikes, paddleboards, kayaks, or rent from a friendly local establishment, and get out on a boat, to truly appreciate this oceanfront gem!

Drive further Downeast, to Lubec Maine – the easternmost town, to Campobello Island and St Andrews New Brunswick Canada for a real international summer adventure!

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