Edinburgh Inverness St Andrews Scotland travel tips

Inverness to St Andrews to Edinburgh: Scottish Highland Highlights

Scotland is a country that rewards wandering. Around nearly every bend is another castle, loch, village, golf course, whisky distillery— a flock of sheep, or a shaggy Highland “coo” staring back at you.

Our journey from Inverness through the Highlands, east to St Andrews, ending in Edinburgh, was a wonderful mix of castles, coastal villages, battlefields, golf, whisky, history and a generous pour of spectacular Scotch scenery.

Inverness: Gateway to the Highlands
Inverness, the capital of the Scottish Highlands, is a surprisingly lively city and a terrific base for exploring. Set along the River Ness, it combines historic castles and medieval streets with happening cafés, pedestrian shopping streets, and the heart- a riverfront promenade.

We stayed at Columbia, on the River Ness, ask for the Ness Suite, with its castle views, and easy walk to Inverness’ highlights: Inverness Cathedral, the Victorian streets, and 16^th century Abertarff House – the oldest house in Inverness.

Top Things to Do in Inverness
Start with Inverness Castle. Not your traditional castle tour, the beautifully restored castle offers an immersive, interactive experience exploring Scottish heritage and the history of the Highlands. Stop for a drink or bite at the chic North Tower Bar at Castle tour’s end.

Then simply wander. Inverness is made for strolling, with shops, cafés, pedestrian zones and the river promenade all close at hand. Save energy for Ceildigh (music) later!

Loch Ness and Beyond
The obvious day trip is Loch Ness, under an hour from Inverness by car or bus. The legendary Loch stretches 23 miles, its dark waters surrounded by Highland hills, grazing sheep, alpaca and cattle, ancient castles and tiny villages.

Head toward Dores, the quieter eastern shore of Loch Ness, to escape the tour-bus crowds. Consider exploring the Caledonian Canal waterway that links Scotland’s lochs and stretches across the Highlands on bikes or e-bikes, but be warned the roads are narrow and have little-to–no shoulder.

Or take a Jacobite cruise on Loch Ness, maybe you’ll spot “Nessie the legendary loch monster”! On this busier northeastern shore, Urquhart Castle is the marquee. The dramatic ruins overlooking Loch Ness are among Scotland’s most photographed castle sites.

An intriguing stop is Boleskine House, historically the home of occultist Aleister Crowley and later Led Zeppelin guitarist Jimmy Page, the stuff of strange Scottish legend and lore.

Highland Coos, Castles and Whisky
Then there are the Highland cows, or coos in Scottish accent. These shaggy ginger-coated cows are irresistible, bred for both their meat and for show. But here’s the truth: you may see more Highland coos in gift shops than Scottish fields. Sheep, however, are everywhere, more sheep (6 mill) than peeps (5 mill) in Scotland!

Dunrobin Castle is a spectacular French château-style palace and one of the great showpieces of the Highlands. The ancestral home of the Earls of Sutherland, it dates back centuries and its dramatic remodel makes it the elegant palace you see today. Don’t miss the Falconry display, in the castle’s magnificent gardens overlooking the Moray Firth. Birds of prey soaring over the castle’s formal gardens is unforgettable.

From Dunrobin, continue to the charming town of Dornoch. Have lunch or a whisky at the Dornoch Castle Hotel, then visit the beautiful 13th-century Dornoch Cathedral. Dornoch has a fascinating American connection to Industrialist Andrew Carnegie, who emigrated from here to the United States to become one of America’s great industrialists and philanthropists. Golfers, Royal Dornoch Golf Club is next door. Non-golfers, admire the green scene.

With energy remaining on your return to Inverness, hike the four-mile round-trip trail up to Fyrish Monument, built in 1782 to resemble the gateway to Negapatam, India. The views across the Highlands are equally spectacular.

Stop at Glenmorangie Distillery for a whisky tasting—even better paired with chocolate.

Inverness Eats
Back in Inverness, reserve a table at sophisticated River House, or upstairs at Castle Tavern. For casual, Black Isle Bar is a favorite for wood-fired pizza on the rooftop, while Coyote is a good choice for a burger with a view.

Then embrace the Scottish evening. Inverness has plenty of pubs offering Ceilidh – traditional music at Hootenanny, Highlander, Celtic and the oldest – MacGregor’s, among others. At night, stroll around the castle, which is grandly illuminated after dark.

Mornings, we loved XOKA, a cozy breakfast café in Inverness, to begin another Highland day.

Inverness to St Andrews: Scotland’s Castle Country
Inverness toward St Andrews is a wonderful progression of castles, coastlines, whisky and history.

Just north of Inverness, our tour began at the Culloden Battlefield, the haunting site of the 1746 Battle of Culloden, where Jacobite forces were decisively defeated by the British army in less than an hour. Walking the battlefield is a sobering experience. Nearby is Cawdor Castle, one of the Highlands’ most popular castle attractions – but beware tour buses and crowds.

To break away from the bus-tour brigade we headed to Brodie Castle, then follow the Coastal Route toward Findlater Castle. Stopping in the seaside town of Cullen, birthplace of the Scottish Cullen skink – a delightful creamy smoked-fish soup with a weird name.

Whisky lovers, this route connects many distilleries – Strathisla, Glen Moray, Benromach and Glenfiddich, among others. Try the smoky peat whisky (no E). Slàinte!

After Cullen, our next castle was Fyvie Castle, a magnificent medieval fortress with more than 800 years of history. Grand salons, extensive rooms and imposing towers make it one of the most impressive castles on this tour. Inside Fyvie Church, see beautiful Tiffany stained-glass windows, and perhaps organ and choir practice as we enjoyed.

A Highland Golf Estate
Just a few miles away, we checked into Meldrum House Country Hotel & Golf Course, where we finally found Highland cows grazing on property, with the Scottish countryside and golf links beyond. I had been searching for the real thing after seeing so many Coo souvenirs in gift shops, and they were staying right at my hotel! Meldrum House is worth a splurge. Have a cocktail in the 1236 Cave Bar, check out the private whisky locker, ask for a distinctive suite – like ours – Beauchamp. Note: Meldrum House is a popular wedding and events venue, so evenings can be “lively.”

Four Castles in One Day
If you love castles, visit Castle Fraser, Drum Castle, Craigievar and Crathes Castle—all on this Castle Route – each different glimpses into Scotland’s aristocracy. Then in the pretty harbor town of Stonehaven, don’t miss Scotland’s most spectacular castle ruin – Dunnottar Castle reached by a scenic walk out along the cliffs to this dramatic medieval fortress perched above the North Sea. On your return walk, Black Hill Memorial is a somber Roman-inspired monument honoring Scottish soldiers who sacrificed in the two World Wars.

We stayed at the Ship Inn, overlooking Stonehaven’s peaceful harbor. After a full day of castle storming, dinner downstairs in the pub was perfect: sharing a generous local seafood platter of fresh local haddock, shrimp, mackerel and mussels with potatoes.

St Andrews: Home of Golf- and much more
On the way to St Andrews, stop at House of Dun Garden & Estate, another elegant Scottish estate worth exploring. Then onward “fore” St Andrews, the legendary “home of golf.” This town bustles with golfers, university students, and tour buses, but so much history here too.

Explore the ruins of St Andrews Cathedral, one of Scotland’s most tumultuous religious seats, and St Andrews Castle, where Scotland’s conflicts played out centuries before the golfers tee’d up!

Walk the streets of 1410 University of St Andrews, Scotland’s oldest university. Get a coffee where Prince William met his future princess Kate. For a beach break, beyond the Old Course is West Sands Beach -a beautiful two-mile stretch of sand and sea.

As a non-golfer, St Andrews made me feel like a non-skier dropped into an alpine resort town like Zermatt in ski season, with all the golf shops, and foursomes of preppy men.

After the buses depart and golfers caddy away, St Andrews shines differently at night with cobbled streets beneath gas lights, pubs and cafés invite cozy evening gathering.

We stayed just outside St Andrews at Tarskavaig B&B, where our balcony overlooked hundreds (and hundreds) of amiable sheep grazing the fields. Our hosts, Alan and Fiona, prepared a smashing breakfast before sending us off with wonderful suggestions to explore the Kingdom of Fife Coastal Route.

St Andrews to Edinburgh: Outlander and Kelpies
Heading toward Edinburgh, make time for Falkland, a charming village with a starring role in Outlander. Falkland Palace is impressive, beautifully restored (partially restored anyway) and filled with royal stories. Mary, Queen of Scots played tennis on the original 16th century tennis courts. Wander the village to see flower-laden Covenanter Hotel, recognizable to Outlander fans as Claire and Frank’s honeymoon spot.

Culross
Additional Fife stops if time allows include Tarvit Mansion, Blackness Castle and House of the Binns. Our Scottish wet and woolly weather abridged our castle-storming. But the Royal Burgh of Culross was a worthy cobbled village to visit. I recognized the old torture post in the medieval village center of mustard colored houses, along with several scenes from Outlander. Culross is charming—and popular with Outlander “set jetters,” as we call them, rather than jet setters.

The Kelpies
Approaching Edinburgh, watch for the enormous Kelpies, two monumental horse-head sculptures rising 100 feet above the highway, unveiled in 2014 to honor Scotland’s legendary mythical water horses.

Edinburgh: The Grand Finale
Back in Edinburgh, one final spectacular experience before our flight home: the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo. This 3 week long annual August-only event with military parade of bagpipes, drums and Scottish dancing is a must performance in the evening shadows of Edinburgh Castle. It is the kind of grand finale that makes you want to return to magical Scotland. See more on Edinburgh, and where to stay in Edinburgh in Grassmarket.

Heather’s Scotland Tip

Don’t try to do all of Scotland in one trip, never mind one week. Scotland may seem small, like Maine, but the roads, weather, stones and palaces, cow and sheep-crossing have a way of stretching a journey.

We loved Edinburgh, to Oban, the Outer Hebrides, Stornoway, Ullapool, Inverness, Stonehaven and St Andrews, with so many castles, coastal villages, whisky, Harris Tweed, sheep and coos to see.

Planning to visit several castles and gardens? The National Trust for Scotland card is a worthwhile membership, saves money, and saves Scotland’s heritage.

Enjoy the magic of Scotland – cozy pubs, stone circles and castles, cute coos, quiet harbors and surprisingly sandy beaches, surfside cliffs and wild outer islands!