Scotland Outer Hebrides cycle itinerary

Scotland’s Outer Hebrides Biking Adventure

Everyone raves about Scotland’s Inner Hebrides – Isle of Skye, dramatic seascape and Highlands, amazing drives and hikes, just west of mainland Scotland. But Skye has become very popular! We longed for something less discovered, to tour and cycle something extraordinary, a place few have heard of! We planned to bike the Outer Hebrides, a 10-island archipelago, 250-miles, including 2 ferries and 6 causeways, south to north, 10,000’ in elevation over 7 days biking, staying in inns and BnBs along our self-catered (carrying our pannier luggage on our traditional rented pedal bikes) ride. You can add this Scotland adventure to a trip touring Edinburgh, St Andrews and Inverness as we did!

After enjoying Edinburgh for a couple of days, we boarded a train across the center of Scotland to Glasgow. From Glasgow we hopped aboard a 3-hour train to Oban, the “gateway to the islands”, this is where the splendor of the Scottish Highland began to reveal itself.

Staying in Oban for a night or two is special, this quaint fishing village of 8,000 is home to ferries, a whiskey distillery, local shops and seaside cafés with an ease and joy to explore. Oban is also the seat of tremendous Scottish clan history. Be sure to climb up to Clan McCaig’s Tower perched above the village, then walk along the waterfront prom to Dunollie Castle, and ride bikes or take a cab out to Dunnstnaffage Castle… otherwise it’s a lovely, long, 4 mile walk each way.

Back in Oban, we loved our tour & tasting at Oban Whisky Distillery, right smack dab in the center of the village. Definitely dine at Ee-usk for the freshest seafood with a beautiful harbor view in a chic enviro. Fishhouse Waterfront, we shared plates of haddie & haggie (try it) and salmon-wrapped asparagus! For a special treat, Porcini No 17 provided delicious Italian seafood in a romantic setting – ask for the window table.

Then we boarded a five-hour CalMac ferry to the outer islands, to Castlebay on Isle of Barra to start our cycle week, south to north, to the legendary Outer Hebrides northern most point, the Butt of Lewis.

Our long ferry ride passed stunning islands, lighthouses, with distant views of Isle of Skye to the north. We saw dolphin pods, and I think a Minky whale. We landed in the tiny town of Barra in Castlebay, named for the stone castle on a tiny island just offshore. Here we collected our Bespoke Bike rentals from Barra Island Bikes, and checked into the cozy Craignair Inn, where we had an annex room, fresh & tidy, with a peaceful view of the harbor. That evening, content to go to Craignair’s bar for a wee dram of Whisky (the Scots don’t call it scotch), we dined on local salmon risotto and diver scallops, perfect, overlooking the waterfront. There’s not much else in Castlebay anyway.

Cycle Day 1 Barra to Eriskay – 32-miles, with 1 Ferry, 750’ vertical
Next morning, after a lovely breakfast at the Craignair, we saddled up, panniers on bikes and pedaled into the rain and wind – riding to make the 11am ferry from Barra to Eriskay. The seaside and countryside were splendid, dotted with rocks and sheep, bays of white sand and impossibly Caribbean blue water, plus a few meaningful hills, but few cars on the narrow roads. Soon we were at the ferry terminal for our short boat (did we mention rainy?) ride with bikes, and cars. There’s an interior lounge on the ferry, all we cyclists tried drying our gear by the heat. From Eriskay, we cycled a causeway (in the driving rain and wind) to the next island of South Uist. A pleasant stop for lunch and hot cocoa (we were a wee damp and chilly – in August!) at Politician Pub (be sure to make a reservation, even for lunch). Inquire about the name to hear their shipwreck whisky tale. Cycling into a stiff wind across a causeway to Polochar Inn, we happily reached this remote coastal point. Our sea view room was nicely appointed with local Harris Tweed pillows and throws. Dinner was hearty delicious steak pie, with as many locals as hotel guests. A game of darts in the Pub and we were done for the night! These outlying Scottish islands have just one pub per village at best, oft nary a shop.

Cycle Day 2 Eriskay to South & North Uilst – 44-miles, 825’ vertical
Starting with delicious homemade Eggs Benedict. We discussed how the prevailing winds in the Outer Hebrides are typically from the Southwest, hence Greg had planned our ride with from south to north with the wind. Not that day, winds were 30-50 mph out of the Northeast with driving rain! After watching people getting nearly blown over in the parking lot, Greg was on the phone and booking a taxi ride for us that could accomodate our bikes.

We drove along South Uist Island, famed for Beinn Mohr mountain, huge at 620 meters (2040’), an important radar station for US defense. Even our taxi was heavily buffeted by the head winds as we drove along! We later talked to riders who had attempted to make the ride only to literally be blown over after 7km and then they too called a cab!

Langass Lodge was our lovely inn for the night. Our room in the outer building was spacious and gracious. Before drinks in the cozy pub and dinner, we walked out to Finn’s People stone circle and Loch Euport. The lodge used to enjoy a stunning view of you of the Loch, but until they bring someone in with a chainsaw you barely catch glimpses of it with out walking out toward the Stone Circle. Continuing on a circular hike past the stone circle brings you to Barpa Langass – an ancient 5000-year cairn and burial mound, the first of our Scottish stoner tour! My Cullen Skink that eve – smoked seafood chowder – was far more delicious than its less-appetizing name implies.

Cycle Day 3 Uilst to South Harris – 45-miles, 1 Ferry, 1100’ vertical
The sky’s finally cleared the next morning and cycling around North Uist’s western shores was absolutely brilliant in treasured, rare, Scottish sunshine. We cruised over rolling hills, with surprisingly white sand beaches, and pastures full of sheep, bunnies, cows and a few Highland coos. We spotted the rare otter swimming across a lake. Cycling by Scolpaig Tower and a massive cross, across a stone causeway, we made lunch at Berneray Café and bistro, before boarding our CalMac ferry to our next island of South Harris. CalMac ferries are efficient, timely, and tidy (warning: ferries do experience occasional schedule disruptions, and having a reservation is always advised in season). We spotted seal along our hour-journey between islands, and enjoyed distant views of Isle of Skye to the east. Biking off the ferry, Isle of Harris Brewery tempted us in for a brew to toast to our arrival on the legendary Isle of Harris – the “Jewel of the Outer Hebrides.” This is home to Harris Tweed, woven here from island sheeps’ wool, so we popped into a weaving shop. So cool that all Harris Tweed is still made in peoples’ homes entirely on the Hebrides.

We lodged just a few kilometers east from the tiny town of Leverburgh at the very chic seaside Sranndabhal BnB with our genial innkeepers Joan and Angus MacCloud. They suggested we hike out to St Clement’s Church, part of their family clan history. The 1500s cathedral was incredible, so was the short hike along the cliffs amid more sheep than we could count!

Cycle Day 4 South – North Harris -Tarbert – 28-miles, 2575’ vertical
The next morning, Joan served a magnificent breakfast in the lovely oceanfront living room. It was another stormy day with rain and again 30 – 50mph winds. Angus kindly offered to drive us to North Harris Island, in lieu of cycling on this stormy day. But winds had turned 180 degrees and would be at our back for the day and intrepid Greg said, “thank you so kindly for the generous offer, but we came here to ride.”

The first few miles were challenging with a side wind in the driving rain. But then the road bent north along the Island and with the wind now at our our backs, we FLEW along the road. Whizzing along, barely feeling the rain on our back, we passed verdant farmland, a couple of golf courses and several surfy white sand beaches including Seilsebost Beach. Truly magical scenery, a kaleidoscope of colors like we’ve never seen. At speeds we had never seen on our bicycles, our Komoot App later told us we peaked out at 49 mph, we still question that, but when there is a 50 mph wind at your back…

Stopping at Ta Na Mara Cafe for a bite and a break fueled us for the upcoming 3-mile ascent up into the purply-heather Highlands, where waterfalls splashed over granite boulders. It was the most spectacular rainy ride ever. We were so glad we hadn’t taken Angus up on his generous offer for a ride. After being aided by the wind in our long climb up the mountain, we zipped down the mountain, stopping occasionally to take in the magnificent views, into Tarbert. Here we checked into our next overnight at Hotel Hebrides. We stowed our bikes and strolled in the light rain to local craft shops, the mecca – Harris Tweed Store, then Harris Island Distillery, followed by a cozy cocktail and dinner by the digital fireplace back at our Hotel.

Cycle Day 5 North Harris – Lewis – Carloway – 45-miles, 2450’ vert
Venturing from pretty Tarbert, its up and over 800-meters, 2600’ Clisham Mountain (a big cycle day or a $4 bus fare in foul weather) with spectacular scenery, lakes above sea level, views of Isle of Skye, then dropping down to western Isle of Lewis peat bogs and fields of heather. We disembarked from the dry safe bus ride at the famous Calanais Standing Stones. This 3900 BC stone circle is absolutely mind-boggling, inspiring a scene from Outlander! An interactive modern visitor center is part of your admission. We boarded our bikes here to ride the final 5-miles to our stop for the night at the lovely Dunan Hotel with views of the bluff and Lough (small lake). Chef proprietor Gregor, who took over in 2026, takes great care in his hospitality, fabulous food, and even live Ceilidh music on our night, all local talent and a surprisingly big crowd of locals crammed into his cozy inn!

Cycle Day 6 Carloway to the Butt of Lewis – 44-miles, 1875’ vertical
Our northernmost cycling day to the Butt of Lewis (the butt is ironically the top), the northern most end of the Outer Hebridian Way route and the sun was shining bright for this epic last stretch! Our first stop of the day was Carloway Broch – a fascinating prehistoric dome-shaped stone dwelling. More cool stops along this rolling hilly northwest scenic cycle included Blackhouse Village, Whalebone Arch, Truishal Standing Stone. A coffee stop at Borve Hotel was ideal, before our final approach to the tippy top of the 10-island chain of Outer Hebrides. Then we saw it… in the distance, the shimmering Butt of Lewis Lighthouse, our “Finish Line” (not really, but it felt that way). This Atlantic perch is staggeringly beautiful with towering cliffs and waves pounding the rocky shore. I was giddy as a sheep with a bucket of grain reaching this landmark. The greatest winds in the UK were recorded here by Guinness World Records! It was windy, but the sun, surf and salt air tasted like victory! We felt so accomplished having cycled the Hebridean Way.

From here, reinvigorated, we pedaled down to Port of Ness to see the breakwater and northernmost Sandy Beach, then on to our Butt of Lewis B&B, where we were warmly welcomed. Staying at this cozy homespun bed-and-breakfast, we were treated to a spectacular rainbow over the sea at sunset, followed by a delicious home-cooked breakfast before we rode south and east towards Stornoway, the “capital of the Outer Hebrides“ and its largest village.

Cycle Day 7 Butt of Lewis to Stornoway – 28-miles, 1250’ vertical
Our 28-mile ride from Butt of Lewis to Stornoway was more straightforward – long rolling main roads, huge pastures, and peat bogs. Turning east towards Stornoway, we encountered a wee bit more traffic in both directions plus a 6-mile (seemingly endless) mild ascent. Which of course led to a lovely decent as we approached town.

Stornoway is a fun town and fishing Village and cruise ship port, with a magnificent Lews Castle as the centerpiece above the harbor. By far the largest town on the Outer Hebrides, Isle of Lewis and Harris, Stornoway’s population is 4,000. The town is loaded with Harris Tweed shops, a Tweed Museum to tour, Stornoway Distillery famed for their island gin, galleries, cafés, and a few good restaurants – Boathouse and La Balena. Over drinks at MacNeils pub, we chatted with locals who toasted our achievement. The locals would ask “why on earth would you cycle our entire islands!?” Staying at Royal Hotel we had a picture-perfect bayfront castle view.

Not only did we love touring gorgeous Lews Castle interior, imagining a wedding in this magnificent palace, we loved cycling 16-miles around the 270-acre castle grounds of shoreline paths, woods, gardens, and golf course. Our only unfortunate observation is that Stornoway is building a huge new cruise ship terminal (we were glad to be in port when a cruise ship was not), and there are plans to install 50 wind turbines across this unspoiled land and seascape!

Returning our week-long rental bikes to Bespoke Bikes, Alistair said he thought of us a few times, that we had one of the toughest weather weeks for cycling… and that there’s no shame in grabbing a bus or hailing a cab when the wind is howling in your face or its raining sheep and dogs! Other locals concurred, this past week had been unusually harsh! Despite the Scottish wind and weather, we were amazed and thrilled to bike this glorious archipelago, and recommend it to any adventurous cyclist. Taking the CalMac ferry from Stornoway to Ullapool, back to mainland Scotland, we waved to this magical place, full of fantastic befit memories.

In Ullapool, we enjoyed a day and overnight, starting with a brisk hike up Ullapool Hill to amazing Island views. Back in the village, a sit-down pub lunch at Cèilidh was nice, versus take-out fish & chips at popular Chippy Shop. We strolled shops, down to the Distillery along the harbor, waiting for (a strict 4pm check in) for our top floor suite at the Caledonia Hotel.

Next morning, we jumped aboard a very scenic bus, passing rivers and lochs, mountains and moors, through the cute Victorian village of Strathpeffer, to Inverness – the capital of the Scottish Highlands. See more on Inverness, St Andrews, and Edinburgh to complement our Scottish tour.